PCA SKIN is a well-known and trusted authority in the world of skin care. Hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult challenges faced by skin professionals and clients. Hair removal services are extremely popular, but many factors must be considered to optimize skin health during the process. PCA SKIN experts addressed these hot topics via feature articles in industry publications during the month of February.
Director of Education Danae Markland, LE, discusses hyperpigmentation in Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa magazine’s February feature article.
Markland lists the different types of hyperpigmentation: UV-induced (aka actinic), hormonal (aka melasma) and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). She also explains common strategies used to effectively treat hyperpigmentation. Skin must be gently exfoliated and cell turnover increased by treating skin with superficial chemical peels every three weeks. Inhibiting melanogenesis helps prevent future hyperpigmentation. Proven melanogenesis inhibitors include hydroquinone and its derivative arbutin; as well as kojic, lactic, azelaic and l-ascorbic acids, retinoids and resorcinol derivatives. Lastly, using broad spectrum sun protection year-round protects skin from further UV exposure. Markland recommends a multiple strategy approach to treat skin discoloration.
Chief Scientific Officer Jennifer Linder, M.D., also addresses hyperpigmentation in February’s Skin Inc magazine.
She notes that hyperpigmentation can also be a side effect of Addison’s and Cushing’s diseases, linea nigra and celiac disease. Dr. Linder adds glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice root extract) to the above list of effective melanogenesis inhibitors. Licorice root extract also has anti-inflammatory properties. Her treatment advice involves choosing products that contain blends of safe and effective ingredients. This approach provides the versatility necessary to treat a wide variety of clients and types of hyperpigmentation; it also provides more affordable options when cost is a factor. While there are many ongoing studies on skin brightening innovations underway, Dr. Linder stresses that relying on credible science is the best approach to helping clients address hyperpigmentation.
When removing unwanted hair, there is always the potential to harm surrounding skin. National Educator and Editorial Liaison Michelle Goldsmith, LE, writes about the importance of mitigating negative side effects when providing hair removal services in February’s Dermascope magazine.
Goldsmith discusses common hair removal methods, as well as the related precautions. Popular advanced procedures include laser or intense pulsed light (IPL) and electrology. Both procedures induce heat, rendering Fitzpatrick types V to VI at high risk for PIH. While clients may initially request a specific hair removal method, it’s important to educate clients on the best hair reduction approach for his or her Fitzpatrick type. Regardless of the removal technique, a post-procedure regimen is important to avoid potential complications, such as ingrown hairs. Anti-inflammatory ingredients can help with potential redness or irritation. Reducing inflammation also helps to diminish the potential of PIH. There are also prescription drugs available to prevent hair from growing back.
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