the future of retinol is here

Retinoids (vitamin A) have long been seen by dermatologists as the gold standard for treating acne and aging skin. The prescription options contain retinoic acid, the retinoid that interacts directly with the receptors in the skin. Although highly effective, these prescriptions can cause irritation, redness and even skin cracking for some patients. On the other hand, retinol, also a vitamin A, is converted into retinoic acid in the skin on an ‘as needed’ basis, so it produces less surface stimulation. This makes retinol a great option for many skin types and conditions.

Retinol is not new to cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The majority of products available without a prescription are formulated using what is called a retinol complex. This is retinol blended with either retinol esters or other support ingredients that stabilize the retinol and increase its efficacy. These are beneficial, but the percentage of pure retinol is only part of the complex, so although they deliver excellent visible results without irritation and redness, those results usually come more slowly. In contrast, pure retinol products deliver amazing results that can truly rival that of a prescription. These products must use advanced stabilization technologies to protect the inherently unstable retinoid. We at PCA have done just that. Newly available, Intensive Clarity o.5% pure retinol night and Intensive Age Refining 0.5% pure retinol night provide unprecedented results.

These two new formulas are also special because they do not take a one-size-fits-all approach. Intensive Clarity incorporates additional support ingredients that make it excellent for breakout control and hyperpigmentation.  Intensive Age Refining is designed to correct the variety of challenges faced by aging skin including: fine lines, sun damage, laxity and dehydration. These new formulas have already been recognized by beauty editors at O Magazine, Vogue and Redbook! We are excited to share the best in pure retinol. Give us a call, or visit pcaskin.com to find out more about the future of retinol.

antioxidants: multifunctional ingredients – part two

Although the human body has its own native antioxidant defense sytem, daily use of topical antioxidants dramatically increases your skin’s protection against the visible signs of facial aging.  Following are some of the most effective antioxidants to add to your skin care regimen.

L-ascorbic acid is the only true form of vitamin C, and it is the only ingredient to provide all of vitamin C’s topical benefits, including collagen stuimulation. Topically applied L-ascorbic acid serves as a primary, secondary and co-antioxidant that fights free radicals in the skin.

Glutathione is part of the body’s natural antioxidant systems.  Many of the most commonly used antioxidants work by regenerating glutathione.  It is a primary antioxidant that neutralizes current and prevents future oxidation.  Glutathione also works as a co-antioxidant that supports L-ascorbic acid and vitamin E.

Green tea is the source of several potent polyphenol antioxidants. Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) thought to be responsible for green tea’s primary antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin cancer prevention benefits.   EGCG has been shown to prevent the formation of several highly damaging free radicals.

Genistein is an isoflavone derived from soybeans that increases the activity of the skin’s own antioxidants.  Studies suggest that genistein prevents free radical production.  Genistein also interferes with DNA damage and mutation due to UV exposure. Studies show genistein provides short- and long-term UV damage prevention, including redness, skin cancer and visible skin aging.

Resveratrol is found in berries, grapes and red wine.  It is a potent polyphenolic antioxidant that has been shown to suppress the production of a variety of  free radicals. Studies have also shown the resveratrol has a preventative effect on tumor formation within the skin.

Silymarin is a powerful flavanoid antioxidant found in milk thistle whose most active component is the silybin.  Research shows that silybin inhibits lipid peroxidation, free radical production and increases the amount of the skin’s natural antixoidant glutathione.

Caffeine is considered a primary and secondary antioxidant that is capable of scavenging a variety of damaging free radicals. Studies comparing caffeinated and decaffeinated beverages showed a marked increase in the antioxidant activity of those containing caffeine. Research also suggests that topical application of caffeine can reduce the potential of developing skin cancer by forcing damaged,  UV-exposed skin cells into apoptosis [cell death].

Ergothioneine is newer to the skin care market, but research demonstrates strong primary antioxidant, free radical scavenging capabilities. Skin cancer prevention has also been suggested with topical ergothioneine use.

All of these antioxidants can be found in a range of PCA SKIN daily care products and professional treatments.

Niacinamide and the skin

Although it is the only non-living layer of our epidermis, the skin’s stratum corneum (SC) has the critical job of providing a shield from the outside world.  The SC is made up of three vital components: the corneocytes, or dead skin cells; the lipid bilayer; and a combination of lactic acid, urea, salts and amino acids that is collectively referred to as the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF).  When functioning properly, the lipids act like plastic wrap that surrounds the corneocytes, sealing in the NMF and keeping this outermost barrier healthy and hydrated.   Unfortunately, this barrier system is relatively easy to disrupt, leading to transepidermal water loss (TEWL), or the evaporation of our NMF.

The terms TEWL, impaired barrier function and skin dryness are often used interchangeably.  When TEWL occurs, several essential functions, including desquamation, are not possible. This often instigates or worsens skin conditions. The most obvious characteristics of impaired barrier and TEWL is dry, flaky skin; however, a dull complexion may also be an indicator.

The best and most comprehensive way to improve and protect skin suffering from barrier issues is to use products that include both humectants (ingredients that draw moisture into the epidermis from the dermis) and occlusives (ingredients that trap moisture within the epidermis). One well-known occlusive is petrolatum. Think old fashioned petroleum jelly.  Yes, it is effective as it traps 99% of moisture within the skin, but its greasy and heavy feel makes it an unpleasant option for facial use.  Silicones like dimethicone and cyclomethicone are better options as they have a light cosmetically elegant feel, but their moisture-trapping action and powdery finish are their only benefits.  This leads us to niacinamide.

People sometime mistakenly equate niacin and niacinamide.  Although they are related members of the vitamin B family, they have different actions.  Niacin, or nicotinic acid, is converted into nicotinamide in the body.  This conversion process is actually what causes the infamous flushing that occurs from topical and internal niacin use. When used topically, niacinamide does not need to convert an therefore does not cause the negative vascular responses of topical niacin. Additionally, niacinamide has been shown to increase the skin’s important essential free fatty acids, ceramics and cholesterol, further improving dry skin.

Our longtime PCA SKIN favorite ReBalance now contains niacinamide – and all of its benefits.  This excellent occlusive and antioxidant ingredient simply adds to the recognized efficacy of ReBalance.

the truth about toners

The toning portion of a daily regimen is often misunderstood and not always necessary.  Many people feel that toning must be done on a daily basis to ensure clean skin.  Oily patients especially like to tone, because it makes their skin feel drier and tighter (if only for a small period of time).

There are many different toners available on the market today, and it is important to understand how they function, their formulation and benefits of use.

Toners were initially used to balance the skin’s pH after cleansing with soap, which can be more alkaline and drying to the skin.  Because of this alkalinity, toners with a more acidic base helped to lower the skin’s pH, bringing it back to its normal range.  For example, the skin has a pH of about 5.5 to 6.5.  If a person uses a soap that has a pH of 11, then applies a more acidic toner with a pH of 3.0 after cleansing, this will help to bring the pH level back down.

However, if the cleanser you are using is what we call “pH balanced,” then toning is not really necessary.  If you or your patients still feel the need to tone, look for toners that are alcohol-free – alcohol can cause unnecessary drying – and will enhance your daily regimen, such as toners that are formulated with alpha hydroxy acids, nutrients and antioxidants.  Also, try pouring some of your toner into a spray bottle and spray it on your skin throughout the day, especially if your toner is formulated with antioxidants and nutrients.  This way you are protecting and nourishing your skin throughout the day.  This will also help to avoid wasting product by using cotton squares.

PCA SKIN offers two toners:  Smoothing Toner, which is formulated with lactic acid (AHA), citric acid (AHA) and aloe vera (antibacterial and soothing) which is best suited for oily skin types; and Nutrient Toner, which is formulated with pumpkin wine (supplies rich vitamins and antioxidants to the skin), Glutathione (antioxidant) and lactic acid (AHA) which is suitable for all skin types and conditions.

Begin by using either of these toners once every other day, and then use more or less often based on skin type and condition.

does it really matter what kind of vitamin C I use?

The answer is most certainly yes.  L-ascorbic acid is the only type that is truly bioavailable vitamin C and provides all of vitamin C’s purported topical benefits.  Topically applied L-ascorbic acid functions as a primary, secondary and co-antioxidant that quenches reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the water environment of the skin. Because vitamin C is easily oxidized, products must be stablized by one of three methods. If a products has an aqueous base should have a pH of 3.5 or lower. Encapsulation technology and anhydrous product bases are impressive and effective ways to stabilize the ascorbic acid molecule. Esterfication is another method of stabilization; however, ester versions of vitamin C, such as ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, have been shown in clinical studies to provide only the antioxidant capabilities of vitamin C and not the collagen synthesis, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective benefits. This is due to the fact that the skin’s environment does not have the ability to break the bonds within the esters to release usable ascorbic acid. These esters are beneficial when taken orally, as the stomach’s acidic conditions make the release of ascorbic acid feasible.

Stable and effective L-ascorbic acid can be found in the following PCA SKIN products: C-Stregnth 15% with 5% Vitamin E, C-Stregnth 20% with 5% Vitamin E, C-Quench Antioxidant Serum and A&C Synergy Serum.

the power of pumpkin

This time of year, the thought of pumpkin is typically visions of pie.  Aside from is role in holiday desserts, this nutritious and delicious vegetable is also great for your skin. The natural enzymes found in pumpkin have excellent keratolytic properties and help release impacted cells from the stratum corneum, leaving the skin smooth and soft.  This is especially important in the winter months when colder temperatures and lower humidity can leave skin dry and flaky.

In the exfoliation of the skin, enzymes function differently from acids. Alpha hydroxy acids exfoliate by dissolving the bonds (desmosomes) holding cells together, while enzymes work by cleaving the bonds between amino acids that make up proteins.  Exfoliation with enzymes is typically a more gentle process than with single acid peels, and highly effective.

In addition to the excellent surface-smoothing action provided by its enzyme component, pumpkin is also a rich source of vitamins A and C, and a host of other beneficial nutrients.  Treat yourself and your patients to a professional pumpkin mask.  The result is smooth, glowing and healthy skin.  Find these ingredients in the PCA SKIN Pumpkin Peel Treatment. This treatment is especially good for acneic, breakout-prone patients or those with sluggish, dull complexions. Pumpkin Peel Treatments are a great choice for the holidays, and for healthy skin.

sunscreens and vitamin A prevent cancer

Many questions are arising due to the recent release of the Environmental Working Group (EWG) 2010 sunscreen guide in which they advise against using sunscreen containing either retinyl palmitate (vitamin A) or oxybenzone.  In this release, they only recommend 39 of the 500 sunscreens currently on the market.  Although they may have the best intentions, by misinterpreting and misunderstanding research, the EWG has unfortunately raised unjustified and unnecessary fears in consumers regarding sunscreen use.  Further, they have erroneously suggested that retinyl palmitate may trigger skin cancer.

We can all feel confident that both oxybenzone and retinyl palmitate are safe.

• Oxybenzone has been tested extensively and determined to be safe and effective by the scientific and regulatory bodies of the European Union, Canada and the United States.
• Retinyl palmitate and the entire the vitamin A family of ingredients, the retinoids, have long been proven to prevent skin cancers.
  • There are numerous scientific papers (citations available through PCA SKIN) as well as clinical experience to support the safety of the retinoid family of ingredients, including retinyl palmitate.   In fact, retinoids have been used for decades by dermatologists for the patients that are most at risk for skin cancers because for their ability to prevent and to reduce the number of actinic keratosis (pre-skin cancers) and skin cancers.
  • The National Toxicology Program (NTP) study, cited by the EWG, did not look at sunscreens.  This study was only evaluating the relationship between retinyl palmitate and UV exposure.  This is a critical fact because the addition of sunscreen, combined with the retinyl palmitate, would limit any cancer induction by UV rays.   Even if the EWG assertion that vitamin A induces skin cancer was correct, which the majority of research does not support, a sunscreen component added to vitamin A would inhibit the UV rays therefore inhibiting cancer.
  • There are human studies showing that both retinoids and sunscreens prevent pre-skin cancers and skin cancers.  It does not seem logical to therefore suggest that when used together that they would trigger skin cancers.

Educating patients on the critical importance of sunscreen use is not always easy.  Any distractions that create even the slightest worry or fear thwarts all our efforts to keep our patients healthy.  We hope that this misinterpretation of incomplete data does not put the public in any danger. 

For more information about the studies supporting the safety and efficacy of retinyl palmitate and sunscreens, feel free to contact us.

the vitamin D debate

There are five known forms of vitamin D: D1, D2, D3, D4 and D5.  The two forms most important to humans are D₂ (ergocalciferol) and D₃ (cholecalciferol). Vitamin D is known for its ability to maintain beneficial levels of calcium and phosphorus in the blood, leading to strong bones.  Human vitamin D deficiency is known historically as the cause of rickets, a disease in which the bones become malformed. According to the Mayo Clinic, research also suggests that appropriate levels of vitamin D can provide protection from osteoporosis, hypertension (high blood pressure), cancer, and several autoimmune diseases.

Exposure to UVB rays is necessary to produce vitamin D in the human body.  This fact has led to a spirited debate among physicians and clinicians about whether daily use of sunscreen is leading to widespread vitamin D deficiency, and whether there is a legitimate need for unprotected sun exposure each day.

Althought the benefits of vitamin D are above reproach, how we get this important vitamin is a point of debate.  With skin cancer cases rising and increased evidence of the direct link between UV exposure and premature aging, unprotected sun exposure seems an unecessary risk to take when other sources of vitamin D are readily available. Many dairy foods are fortified with vitamin D, and it is found in oily fish like salmon, sardines and cod.  The easiest way to ensure that you have adequate vitamin D levels and avoid other unecessary health risks is to take a 1,000 IU supplement daily.

At PCA SKIN, we believe that daily use of a  broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen is critical for skin health.  For more information about vitamin D, skin cancer and the debate around this issue, visit www.skincancer.org.