Oprah loves Weightless Protection SPF 45!

The May issue of O magazine has hit the shelves and guess what made The O List? PCA SKIN Weightless Protection SPF 45! Since its launch in 2010, this light, quick-absorbing sun protection powerhouse has quickly become a customer favorite. Now it seems it’s become one of Oprah’s favorites, too.

Weightless Protection SPF 45 is a revolutionary formulation that provides broad-spectrum protection with zinc oxide and octinoxate. Part of what makes this sun protection product unique is caffeine, an amazing topical ingredient that increases the activity of other antioxidants and also identifies cells damaged by UV exposure and forces them into apoptosis – the process of cell death.  This is an unprecedented boost to skin cancer prevention. Also, the powerful antioxidant sylibin from milk thistle fight free radicals, suppresses redness caused by exposure to UVB rays and reduces the formation of sunburn cells. Because it is so light and disappears into the skin, especially people with oily skin and acne love this product.  This member of the PCA SKIN family of sun protection products truly is the next generation of sun protection, and we’re glad that Oprah agrees! 

April is rosacea awareness month

Although the latest 2010 research from the National Rosacea Society suggest that rosacea affects nearly 16 million Americans, a large majority of those affected have no knowledge of the condition or how to treat it. As rosacea awareness month, April is a great time to take that extra time to educate your patients about this chronic condition.

Some important facts about rosacea:

• it is seen more in women aged 30-50, although it typically affect men more destructively.
• people with rosacea tend to get red more easily and remain red longer when exercising, in heat or under stress.
• dry skin and barrier dysfunction are common, and if not addressed in conjunction with the redness the symptoms will usually worsen.
• rosacea will continue to worsen if left untreated.

Common triggers for rosacea:

• drinking alcoholic beverages

• using alcohol-based products topically

• eating spicy foods

• drinking hot beverages such as coffee and tea

• leading a stressful lifestyle

• saunas, steam rooms and hot tubs

• exercise

• extremes in temperature

• aggressive mechanical exfoliation of the skin (e.g. loofahs, nut-based scrubs)

Currently, rosacea cannot be cured. It is usally best controlled using a combination of prescriptions, cosmeceuticals and lifestyle considerations. Two PCA SKIN products that are highly effective in the treatment of rosacea are Anti-Redness Serum and Hydrating Serum. These products work to reduce the microcapillary dilation and leaking as well as provide intercellular moisture and improved barrier function.

Feel free to contact us or visit pcaskin.com for more information about rosacea, and the products and treatments available for its treatment.

 

what is apoptosis?

Apoptosis, also called cell death, is a complex and important process within our bodies. It results in specific cells being targeted, completely engulfed and eliminated. Although ‘cell death’ doesn’t sound like a positive process in the body, apoptosis performs important functions in fetal development, as well as keeping the skin free from mutated cells that can potentially lead to cancers.

During fetal development, the cells between the fingers and toes are targeted for apoptosis.  If this process were not to occur, we would have webbed hands and feet. As it relates to skin cancer prevention, apoptosis contributes to the ridding of damaged cells from the skin. First, cells that are injured by UV exposure and other environmental offenders are identified. Then, cells called killer T cells communicate with the damaged cell and move to engulf it. The process continues with other biomolecules and proteins being summoned to participate in the breakdown and elimination of the mutated cell. Without this process, cells whose DNA has been damaged by UV radiation would be allowed to reproduce, resulting in the development of tumors.

An exciting ingredient that helps facilitate the process of targeting skin cells that have been damaged by UV exposure and instigating the process of apoptosis is caffeine.  This powerhouse ingredient not only increases the antioxidant capabilities of other polyphenols, but also helps prevent cells with compromised DNA from reproducing and potentially causing skin cancer tumors.  You can find topical caffeine along with the powerful antioxidant silybin in the whole range of PCA SKIN sun protection products including: Weightless Protection SPF 45, Perfecting Protection SPF 30, Protecting Hydrator SPF 30, Hydrator Plus SPF 30 and Active Very Water/Sweat Resistant SPF 45.

why more isn’t always better

In a world of instant gratification where waiting for anything seems unnecessary, we tend to assume that anything we want can be achieved instantaneously. When it comes to correcting skin challenges, this cannot be the assumption. It is common for professionals and consumers alike to seek out the strongest products and treatments available because they assume that the strongest, biggest, fastest MUST be the best. In fact, overly aggressive products and treatments not only do not correct skin challenges, but they are often their cause.

Skin functions as the largest organ of the human body. Its critical importance in leading a healthy life is often overlooked.  Causing unnecessary inflammation triggers defensive mechanisms in the skin that can lead to redness, swelling, rashes, oxidative damage and hyperpigmentation.  The best way to achieve healthy and beautiful skin is to take a low dose approach.  This means using products and treatments that contain the appropriate levels of actives necessary to instigate positive changes in the skin, not too strong, as that can lead to inflammation and irritation.  The days of ‘no pain, no gain’ are thankfully long gone.

All PCA SKIN products and treatments are formulated with this low dose philosophy. One might think that lower percentages of acids or actives means consenting to wait longer for results.  This is not the case.  Often when following the ‘more isn’t better’ approach, dramatic results are achieved even more quickly.

Feel free to contact us anytime at (877) 722.7546 with questions or to find out more about becoming a PCA SKIN Certified Professional. You can also visit us at pcaskin.com, on Facebook or follow us on Twitter @PCASKIN.

Niacinamide and the skin

Although it is the only non-living layer of our epidermis, the skin’s stratum corneum (SC) has the critical job of providing a shield from the outside world.  The SC is made up of three vital components: the corneocytes, or dead skin cells; the lipid bilayer; and a combination of lactic acid, urea, salts and amino acids that is collectively referred to as the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF).  When functioning properly, the lipids act like plastic wrap that surrounds the corneocytes, sealing in the NMF and keeping this outermost barrier healthy and hydrated.   Unfortunately, this barrier system is relatively easy to disrupt, leading to transepidermal water loss (TEWL), or the evaporation of our NMF.

The terms TEWL, impaired barrier function and skin dryness are often used interchangeably.  When TEWL occurs, several essential functions, including desquamation, are not possible. This often instigates or worsens skin conditions. The most obvious characteristics of impaired barrier and TEWL is dry, flaky skin; however, a dull complexion may also be an indicator.

The best and most comprehensive way to improve and protect skin suffering from barrier issues is to use products that include both humectants (ingredients that draw moisture into the epidermis from the dermis) and occlusives (ingredients that trap moisture within the epidermis). One well-known occlusive is petrolatum. Think old fashioned petroleum jelly.  Yes, it is effective as it traps 99% of moisture within the skin, but its greasy and heavy feel makes it an unpleasant option for facial use.  Silicones like dimethicone and cyclomethicone are better options as they have a light cosmetically elegant feel, but their moisture-trapping action and powdery finish are their only benefits.  This leads us to niacinamide.

People sometime mistakenly equate niacin and niacinamide.  Although they are related members of the vitamin B family, they have different actions.  Niacin, or nicotinic acid, is converted into nicotinamide in the body.  This conversion process is actually what causes the infamous flushing that occurs from topical and internal niacin use. When used topically, niacinamide does not need to convert an therefore does not cause the negative vascular responses of topical niacin. Additionally, niacinamide has been shown to increase the skin’s important essential free fatty acids, ceramics and cholesterol, further improving dry skin.

Our longtime PCA SKIN favorite ReBalance now contains niacinamide – and all of its benefits.  This excellent occlusive and antioxidant ingredient simply adds to the recognized efficacy of ReBalance.

the four faces of rosacea

Understanding rosacea is a continuous process.  Only within the last several years has rosacea been classified into four subtypes, and research brings us more information all the time. Only a physician can make a diagnosis, but it is important for the skin care clinician to be able to recognize these various presentations in order to educate the patient and make an appropriate recommendation to a physician. 

Rosacea cannot be cured only controlled, so it is important for the rosacea patient to understand what triggers this condition.  Heat, spicy foods, hot showers or hot tubs, certain types of cosmetics or extremes in temperature are some of the triggers that should be avoided.

Subtype one – erythematotelangiectatic rosacea is characterized by persistent redness within the central portion of the face, with possible telangiectasias (visible capillaries). The patient will become red or flushed easier and stay red longer.

Subtype 2 – papulopustular rosacea is characterized by persistent redness in the same area, including lesions that resemble papules and pustules.  This subtype is commonly referred to as acne rosacea because of its presentation, but absolutely cannot be treated in the same manner as acne.  One way to differentiate this presentation from acne is that the lesions will appear only within the inflamed area.  Blackheads and cysts will not typically be present.

Subtype three – phymatous rosacea is characterized by a thickening of the skin, most commonly seen on the nose (rhinophyma) but can affect other areas of the face such as the glabella and chin. This type of rosacea presents mostly in men and can be treated surgically.

Subtype four – ocular rosacea affects the eye area, and includes symptoms such as eye irritation, conjunctivitis (pink eye), blepharitis (inflammation of the eyelids), frequent styes, itching, burning and stinging of the eyes.  This type of rosacea is often misdiagnosed, and if left untreated, can lead to blindness.

Patients can have subtype one and subtype four rosacea, or subtype two and three.  This condition doesn’t necessarily progress from one subtype to the next.

Many people have rosacea and don’t even know it.  For more information, go to www.rosacea.org.

Not all skin is created equal

Although all skin has similar anatomy, there are surprising differences between skin in different locations on the body, and even different parts of the face. Of special concern is the delicate skin around the lips and the eyes. The differences are affected by both biological and environmental factors.

Lips

The skin on the lips is much thinner than most facial skin. Also, the lips do not have sweat glands or the same barrier function as the skin on the rest of the body, making it harder to keep smooth, free of bacteria and at the proper temperature. Also, the digestive enzymes contained in saliva can be drying and irritating to the lips and can cause chapping. To keep flakiness and irritation under control, Gentle Exfoliant and Peptide Lip Therapy by PCA SKIN are highly recommended as part of any regular daily regimen.

 

Eyes

The area around the eyes is characterized by skin that is substantially thinner than the rest of the face. In addition to the normal breakdown of collagen and elastin that weakens this skin, the constant motion of blinking, smiling and squinting stress this area even more. And, because the eye area contains almost no oil glands, it is critical to keep it properly moisturized. EyeXcellence and ExLinea® Peptide Smoothing Serum is designed to treat the unique needs of the eye area with strengthening antioxidants, peptides and other hydrating and anti-aging ingredients.

Understanding the unique needs of the skin on different parts of the face and will help you provide the best products and treatments for each patient.

what is autophagy and why is it important?

A critical biological process that has not gotten much attention in the skin health industry is autophagy. This, along with exocytosis is responsible for the cells’ ability to rid itself from spent materials within themselves, allowing important cellular functions to continue properly.  Just as we need to take out the trash on a regular basis to keep our homes running efficiently, the cells also need to expel waste material to maintain proper function.

Step two of the newly reformulated PCA SKIN Oxygenating Trio, Detoxifier, contains hydrolyzed candida saitoana extract that helps to promote healthy autophagy within the cells.  This step performs repairing and detoxifying functions that allow the skin to maintain homeostasis and rid itself of damaged proteins that can lead to disease, skin dysfunction and premature aging. One theory of aging is that over time, defective components accumulate in cells that ultimately disrupt the proper functioning of living processes. This extract is a byproduct of the metabolic process of a specific type of yeast. It has the unique ability to promote the formation of lysosomes that capture spent materials within the cells.  It also enables the fusion of these multi-membrane structures allowing the waste materials to be degraded by lysosomal enzymes.  Once the materials are degraded, they are move slowly toward the cell membrane and released into the extracellular matrix through the process of exocytosis.

This critical process in the healthy function of cells is complex, but can be simplified into one elementary concept – taking out the trash. Although the Oxy trio has always been an effective treatment for detoxifying skin, with the new addition of hydrolyzed candida saitoana extract, it can assist in the purification and healthy function of cell at a whole new level.

ingredients for resolving redness

Facial redness is a common skin concern. Some redness can be due to the use of aggressive topical agents, fragrances and dyes, while other redness is indicative of a sensitive skin condition like rosacea, impaired barrier function or atopic dermatitis. Regardless of the cause of redness, there are ingredients that will help to get this frustrating condition under control. Some ingredients that reduce the appearance of redness are anti-inflammatory and effect the function of microcapillaries. Others work by interrupting the inflammatory process.

VEGF stimulates the growth of new blood vessels and promotes hyperpermeability (capillary leakiness).

PGE2 are prostaglandins that work to dilate blood vessels.

Cytokines are immune-activated cells involved in the amplification of an inflammatory reaction.

Redness-reducing ingredients:

Ascophyllum nodosum (brown algae) and asparagopsis armata (red algae) extracts reduce VEGF and PGE2 expression.

Capparis spinosa (caper bud) fruit extract inhibits the production of proinflammatory cytokines.

Hydrocortisone is used to relieve the itching, redness, dryness, crusting, scaling, inflammation and discomfort of various skin conditions.

Aloe vera extracts are rich in choline salicylate that offers anti-inflammatory benefits.

Panthenol (pro-vitamin B-5) reduces inflammation while increasing the moisture-retention capacity of the skin.

Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) seed oil is an excellent source of omega-3 gamma linolenic acid (GLA) and provides anti-redness and anti-inflammatory capabilities.

Bisabolol is the anti-inflammatory component of chamomile.

Other beneficial anti-inflammatory extracts: grape seed oil, evening primrose seed oil, borage seed oil, wheat germ oil and black currant seed oil.

These redness-fighting components and other beneficial ingredients can be found in Anti-Redness Serum, ReBalance, and other PCA SKIN products. Resolve your redness.

the intriguing plant stem cell

The stem cell is critical to health.  These undifferentiated cells are considered ‘blank’ because they have the ability to differentiate into any other cell. Just as in humans, plant also have stem cells.  One interesting thing about plant stem cells is that in addition to being able to turn into any other cell, they also have the ability to give rise to a whole new plant. Plant stem cells have been extracted and used for skin care products from a wide variety of plants including lilacs, grapes and apples, to name a few.  The main function of these ingredients is not to produce new epidermal stem cells, but to protect the existing cells from potential DNA mutations, damage and the resultant skin degeneration.  Most provide potent antioxidant and MMPi activity, while they all have additional benefits.

At PCA SKIN, we are excited to be offering lilac stem cells in our newly reformulated C-Quench Antioxidant Serum. In addition to the protective and cell repair activity, verboscocides (the active component of the lilac stem cell extract) has also shown tyrosinase and collagenase inhibition and strong anti-inflammatory action.  This is an excellent addition to the already powerhouse antioxidant formula in C-Quench Antioxidant Serum.

We are also now using stem cells from red grapes in our updated Rejuvenating Serum. The ancillary benefits of this plant stem cells is its proven ability to protect epidermal stem cells from UV-induced stress and damage.  Paired with epidermal growth factor, the cell protection and proliferation is powerful.

Enjoy these two updated formulas, and contact us any time with questions or comments.