the future of retinol is here

Retinoids (vitamin A) have long been seen by dermatologists as the gold standard for treating acne and aging skin. The prescription options contain retinoic acid, the retinoid that interacts directly with the receptors in the skin. Although highly effective, these prescriptions can cause irritation, redness and even skin cracking for some patients. On the other hand, retinol, also a vitamin A, is converted into retinoic acid in the skin on an ‘as needed’ basis, so it produces less surface stimulation. This makes retinol a great option for many skin types and conditions.

Retinol is not new to cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The majority of products available without a prescription are formulated using what is called a retinol complex. This is retinol blended with either retinol esters or other support ingredients that stabilize the retinol and increase its efficacy. These are beneficial, but the percentage of pure retinol is only part of the complex, so although they deliver excellent visible results without irritation and redness, those results usually come more slowly. In contrast, pure retinol products deliver amazing results that can truly rival that of a prescription. These products must use advanced stabilization technologies to protect the inherently unstable retinoid. We at PCA have done just that. Newly available, Intensive Clarity o.5% pure retinol night and Intensive Age Refining 0.5% pure retinol night provide unprecedented results.

These two new formulas are also special because they do not take a one-size-fits-all approach. Intensive Clarity incorporates additional support ingredients that make it excellent for breakout control and hyperpigmentation.  Intensive Age Refining is designed to correct the variety of challenges faced by aging skin including: fine lines, sun damage, laxity and dehydration. These new formulas have already been recognized by beauty editors at O Magazine, Vogue and Redbook! We are excited to share the best in pure retinol. Give us a call, or visit pcaskin.com to find out more about the future of retinol.

why more isn’t always better

In a world of instant gratification where waiting for anything seems unnecessary, we tend to assume that anything we want can be achieved instantaneously. When it comes to correcting skin challenges, this cannot be the assumption. It is common for professionals and consumers alike to seek out the strongest products and treatments available because they assume that the strongest, biggest, fastest MUST be the best. In fact, overly aggressive products and treatments not only do not correct skin challenges, but they are often their cause.

Skin functions as the largest organ of the human body. Its critical importance in leading a healthy life is often overlooked.  Causing unnecessary inflammation triggers defensive mechanisms in the skin that can lead to redness, swelling, rashes, oxidative damage and hyperpigmentation.  The best way to achieve healthy and beautiful skin is to take a low dose approach.  This means using products and treatments that contain the appropriate levels of actives necessary to instigate positive changes in the skin, not too strong, as that can lead to inflammation and irritation.  The days of ‘no pain, no gain’ are thankfully long gone.

All PCA SKIN products and treatments are formulated with this low dose philosophy. One might think that lower percentages of acids or actives means consenting to wait longer for results.  This is not the case.  Often when following the ‘more isn’t better’ approach, dramatic results are achieved even more quickly.

Feel free to contact us anytime at (877) 722.7546 with questions or to find out more about becoming a PCA SKIN Certified Professional. You can also visit us at pcaskin.com, on Facebook or follow us on Twitter @PCASKIN.

treating melasma

Melasma is a very difficult and frustrating condition for both the clinician and the patient. Over 6 million Americans suffer from this condition and roughly half of this number does not know what causes it or how to treat it. Surprisingly, 10% of men can also develop melasma.

There are still a lot of mysteries surrounding this condition and why hormonal fluctuations trigger the melanogenesis response. These hormonal fluctuations can be brought on by pregnancy, birth control, hormone-replacement therapy, or thyroid or hormonal disorders. In addition, melasma can be exacerbated by internal heat, inflammation and UV rays. Melasma is typically seen more in Fitzpatrick skin types IV and V, but anyone can be affected by it.

A broad-spectrum SPF product must be used every day, when treating melasma, and this must be conveyed to the patient during the first consultation. Without SPF, products and professional treatments will not produce the desired results. Daily care product use is also important in controlling the pigmentation process at home. Look for ingredients that inhibit pigment, such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, kojic acid and licorice root extract, to name a few; and ingredients that provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection.

Treating the skin with gentle chemical peels every three weeks is the recommended professional treatment for melasma patients. By treating the skin every 21 days, the clinician is able to prevent pigment that is rising to the surface of the skin from appearing darker, and this type of consistent exfoliation will lead to quicker lifting of the pigment without causing undue inflammation.

It is recommended to avoid overly-aggressive treatments, such as straight TCA peels, high percentages of hydroquinone or light therapies, such as laser or IPL. Patients commonly request IPL or laser as they think these will provide instant gratification and removal of their melasma. In fact, these are no longer recommended for melasma: IPL is considered an inconsistent treatment with only a small number of patients responding favorably; and laser treatments are too unpredictable and may produce initial lightening followed by a reoccurrence or worsening of the discoloration.

PCA SKIN® provides gentle professional treatments for melasma, such as the Sensi® Peel (formulated with five pigment-inhibiting ingredients) and Esthetique Peel (formulated with antioxidants and six pigment-inhibiting ingredients). Our Perfecting Protection SPF 30 is a broad-spectrum SPF product formulated with antioxidants and four pigment-inhibiting ingredients.

These are just a few of the many treatment and product options available for treating melasma in all skin types. Remember: the key to treating melasma successfully is to understand its triggers and to inform your patients of the best treatments for their unique skin type, product use and lifestyle changes that will improve the health and appearance of their skin.

why do I need to stay cool after a chemical peel?

PCA SKIN recommends remaining cool for 48 hours post-peel… buy why?

The epidermis is comprised of several layers known as the basal layer, squamous layer, granular layer and the cornified layer.  When a chemical peel is applied, even if it’s very superficial (stratum corneum only), it can cause a separation of these layers.  If your patient sweats for any reason, either from a work out, getting into a hot vehicle, playing golf or sitting on the patio, water can become trapped between these layers, which can lead to blistering.  Blistering can then cause hyperpigmentation, depending on the severity.

Another reason for staying cool is that internal heat can also lead to hyperpigmentation, which is especially a concern for those with melasma.

Many clinicians choose alternative treatments during the summer months due to the increased chances of thermal heat or sweating.  Others will offer chemical peel treatments later in the day, so the patient has less UV-exposure than they would at an earlier time.

Get to know your patients’ lifestyles, workout schedules, jobs (in case they work in a hot kitchen), and even their vacation schedule.  Taking note of this will enable you to treat their skin accordingly and avoid any heat-related complications post-treatment.

the best in pigment control is now even better

The best in pigment control is now even better. We have enhanced our long-standing formulations with the addition of phenylethyl resorcinol for added brightening benefits and glutathione and silybin for antioxidant properties. These additions to the synergistic combination of lactic, kojic and azelaic acids and hydroquinone (only in the formuation with hydroquinone) provide unsurpassed lightening benefits, added cellular protection and reduced potential for irritation. It seems patients are always searching for that one miracle product that will cure all of their skin challenges. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to address any skin condition with one active ingredient or one product. Hyperpigmentation is an excellent example of a skin condition that typically requires the use of multiple ingredients and multiple products for visible results.

The process of melanogenesis is a chain reaction that involves many separate actions. By using a combination of several ingredients that interact with different portions of this chain reaction, results can be achieved faster. We know that hydroquinone, arbutin, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, phenylethyl resorcinol, and kojic, azelaic and lactic acids inhibit melanin production in different ways, making them all important for different reasons. Unfortunately, it is impossible to formulate one product that contains all of these beneficial ingredients. Because of this, it is best to use a variety of ingredients in multiple products to clear hyperpigmentation.

 

Pigment Gel® and Pigment Gel® HQ Free are acidic products that contains ingredients with small, hydrophilic molecules that effectively target hyperpigmentation in the upper epidermis. The acidity of these products is designed to encourage exfoliation, which is also important to the pigment-lifting process. Conversely, Brightening Therapy with TrueTone is comprised of lipophilic molecules that are able to penetrate deeper into the skin. Because these two products penetrate into varying layers of the epidermis and interact with both the aqueous and lipid environments, they work in perfect combination.

Daily care products, such as Brightening Therapy with TrueTone, A&C Synergy Serum, Pigment Bar and Pigment Gel®, safely and effectively fade existing hyperpigmentation and inhibit future melanogenesis. In-office treatments, such as Sensi Peel® or the appropriate PCA Peel® can be used to accelerate results and provide added lightening benefits.

avoiding summer hyperpigmentation

For those prone to hyperpigmentation, summer drawing nearer can mean worry.  Many put in lots of effort to clear their skin of discoloration throughout the fall and winter, only to see it resurface as the temperatures rise and they inevitably spend more time on outdoor activities.  With some minor adjustments to habits and regimen, this cycle does not have to repeat itself.

It is important to remember that heat, not only UV exposure, can stimulate melanogenesis.  Although it can be difficult to avoid getting overheated during the summer months, especially in humid climates, if you are prone to hyperpigmentation, it is wise to avoid extended or frequent overheating. Outdoor activities during the hours of 10am and 4pm should be minimized, and wearing wide-brimmed hats, protective clothing and staying in the shade can help to suppress unwanted pigment deposit.

The daily use of broad-spectrum sun protection is a must for everyone, but imperative for keeping skin discolorations from resurfacing. In addition to continuing with your regular use of the melanogenesis inhibitors in Pigment Gel and Brightening Therapy, adding Perfecting Protection SPF 30 to your regimen boosts your skin’s ability to suppress hyperpigmentation. This revolutionary broad-spectrum sun protection product contains a blend of bearberry, licorice root extract, kojic acid, mulberry root extract and lactic acid that work synergistically to inhibit and interrupt melanogenesis.  Additionally, the inclusion of caffeine and silybin from milk thistle gives skin powerful protection against free radical damage and the formation of sunburn cells.

For more tips on treating hyperpigmentation and keeping it at bay, feel free to call a highly-educated member of our Practice Development team at 877.PCA.SKIN (722.7546).

the intriguing plant stem cell

The stem cell is critical to health.  These undifferentiated cells are considered ‘blank’ because they have the ability to differentiate into any other cell. Just as in humans, plant also have stem cells.  One interesting thing about plant stem cells is that in addition to being able to turn into any other cell, they also have the ability to give rise to a whole new plant. Plant stem cells have been extracted and used for skin care products from a wide variety of plants including lilacs, grapes and apples, to name a few.  The main function of these ingredients is not to produce new epidermal stem cells, but to protect the existing cells from potential DNA mutations, damage and the resultant skin degeneration.  Most provide potent antioxidant and MMPi activity, while they all have additional benefits.

At PCA SKIN, we are excited to be offering lilac stem cells in our newly reformulated C-Quench Antioxidant Serum. In addition to the protective and cell repair activity, verboscocides (the active component of the lilac stem cell extract) has also shown tyrosinase and collagenase inhibition and strong anti-inflammatory action.  This is an excellent addition to the already powerhouse antioxidant formula in C-Quench Antioxidant Serum.

We are also now using stem cells from red grapes in our updated Rejuvenating Serum. The ancillary benefits of this plant stem cells is its proven ability to protect epidermal stem cells from UV-induced stress and damage.  Paired with epidermal growth factor, the cell protection and proliferation is powerful.

Enjoy these two updated formulas, and contact us any time with questions or comments.

licorice for skin health

Licorice is not only a delicious sweet treat it is also a multi-faceted and hard working skin care ingredient.  Here at PCA SKIN®, we formulate our products using ingredients that offer multiple skin health benefits.  Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is just such an ingredient. It contains components that work to fight inflammation, bacteria and the deposit of unwanted pigment.  Some important components are:

Glycyrrhetinic acid

The molecular structure of glycyrrhetinic acid is similar to that of cortisone. This might be the basis for licorice’s anti-inflammatory action.

 Licochalcone

Licochalcone provides powerful antibacterial action.  It is a great choice for treating acne and rosacea. Lichochalcone also reduces sebum production, inhibits 5 alpha-reductase and fights lipase, the enzyme produced by the acne bacteria that causes local irritation.

 Glabridin

Licorice’s work as a melanogenesis inhibitor (by inhibiting tyrosinase activity) is due to its glabridin content.  This ingredient also provides anti-inflammatory benefits, which is critical to preventing unwanted pigment production.

Find Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, with all of its many benefits, in the following PCA SKIN daily care products:

• A&C synergy serum
• eyeXcellence
• perfecting face & body hydrator SPF 30
• acne gel.