don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 1

This is the first of a three-part series on why our skin suffers in winter and what steps we can take to protect it.

Winter weather is not kind to human skin. The combination of lower humidity, increased winds and cold temperatures creates the perfect storm for leaving skin dry, dehydrated and more susceptible to damage. So what can we do to keep our skin healthy and hydrated throughout the winter months? Protection. Lots of factors contribute to developing the dreaded ‘winter skin.’ By avoiding moisture loss, unprotected sun exposure and free radical damage you can keep your skin healthy and beautiful.

THE FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE

The outermost layer of the skin is called the stratum corneum (SC), and is the first line of defense against the outside world. The SC contains mostly dead skin cells and is often described as the brick and mortar of a wall. The bricks are these dead skin cells (corneocytes) that contain a complex combination of lactic acid, urea, salts and amino acids that is collectively referred to as the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The mortar is made up of groups of important fats (lipids) that organize themselves into layers creating a natural water-binding barrier for the skin.  If there is breakdown in either these ‘bricks’ or ‘mortar’ our skin loses its ability to hold onto moisture and becomes dry and sensitive.

Moisture is all-important for keeping your skin healthy at any time of year. Having enough water in the SC allows our skin to be soft and flexible. Moisture also plays a role in desquamation, which is the intricate process by which our cells turnover and are shed away from the SC. Without the proper moisture levels, the process breaks down, and dead skin cells build up on the surface, making it dull, dry and flaky. This buildup of dead cells on the skin’s surface traps dirt and debris and reduces the penetration of any topical products you apply.  This creates an even worse situation for already stressed and dehydrated skin.

Here are easy some steps you can take to keep your skin hydrated all winter:

1. Avoid using traditional soaps as these strip the skin of necessary oils and increase moisture loss and dryness.  Instead, use pH-balanced, gentle cleansers.  Those in particularly cold climates may want to switch to a cream-type cleanser for winter. A good choice is PCA SKIN creamy cleanser with gentle cleansing ingredients and an anti-aging boost form rose hip seed oil.
2. Apply moisturizers that contain both humectant ingredients to draw moisture into the skin and occlusive ingredients to trap it within.
3. Look for topical products that contain urea and glycerin, as these are the two ingredients, in addition to water, that are shown to hydrate cells internally. PCA SKIN hydrating serum contains these and other humectants and occlusive ingredients and is a great addition to any regimen.
4. Use a cool mist humidifier indoors to increase humidity levels.
5. Maintain water intake, even though the weather is cooler.

Niacinamide and the skin

Although it is the only non-living layer of our epidermis, the skin’s stratum corneum (SC) has the critical job of providing a shield from the outside world.  The SC is made up of three vital components: the corneocytes, or dead skin cells; the lipid bilayer; and a combination of lactic acid, urea, salts and amino acids that is collectively referred to as the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF).  When functioning properly, the lipids act like plastic wrap that surrounds the corneocytes, sealing in the NMF and keeping this outermost barrier healthy and hydrated.   Unfortunately, this barrier system is relatively easy to disrupt, leading to transepidermal water loss (TEWL), or the evaporation of our NMF.

The terms TEWL, impaired barrier function and skin dryness are often used interchangeably.  When TEWL occurs, several essential functions, including desquamation, are not possible. This often instigates or worsens skin conditions. The most obvious characteristics of impaired barrier and TEWL is dry, flaky skin; however, a dull complexion may also be an indicator.

The best and most comprehensive way to improve and protect skin suffering from barrier issues is to use products that include both humectants (ingredients that draw moisture into the epidermis from the dermis) and occlusives (ingredients that trap moisture within the epidermis). One well-known occlusive is petrolatum. Think old fashioned petroleum jelly.  Yes, it is effective as it traps 99% of moisture within the skin, but its greasy and heavy feel makes it an unpleasant option for facial use.  Silicones like dimethicone and cyclomethicone are better options as they have a light cosmetically elegant feel, but their moisture-trapping action and powdery finish are their only benefits.  This leads us to niacinamide.

People sometime mistakenly equate niacin and niacinamide.  Although they are related members of the vitamin B family, they have different actions.  Niacin, or nicotinic acid, is converted into nicotinamide in the body.  This conversion process is actually what causes the infamous flushing that occurs from topical and internal niacin use. When used topically, niacinamide does not need to convert an therefore does not cause the negative vascular responses of topical niacin. Additionally, niacinamide has been shown to increase the skin’s important essential free fatty acids, ceramics and cholesterol, further improving dry skin.

Our longtime PCA SKIN favorite ReBalance now contains niacinamide – and all of its benefits.  This excellent occlusive and antioxidant ingredient simply adds to the recognized efficacy of ReBalance.

humectants and occlusives: what are they and how do they work?

Keeping the skin healthy and hydrated is important all year long, but seems to be more of a challenge as the weather becomes cooler.  We tend to think more about hydration during the summer months than in the winter.  Humectant and occlusive ingredients are key to maintaining healthy, hydrated skin. 

Humectants are ingredients that attract water.  By applying these water-loving ingredients topically, they are able to draw water towards the skin.  Some examples of humectants that are beneficial to the skin are:  glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, urea, honey, sorbitol and lactic acid.  Hyaluronic acid is a very powerful humectant in that it can attract and hold 1,000 times its weight in water, and sodium PCA can attract and hold 250 times its weight.  Urea, sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid and lactic acid are also found naturally in our bodies and in our skin, so they are readily accepted and will not cause sensitivity.

But just using humectant ingredients is not enough.  We must also employ the use of occlusives. 

Occlusives are important because they “lock” in the moisture attracted by the humectants and keep it from evaporating off the skin.  Finding occlusives that will not clog pores can be a challenge.  Avoid occlusive ingredients such as petrolatum, mineral oil and lanolin, as these will sit on the skin resulting in blocked pores, sensitivities and breakouts.  Skin-friendly occlusives include silicones (dimethicone and cyclomethicone), plant oils, squalane, shea butter and zinc oxide.

One way to remember the importance of these two ingredient categories is to think of humectants as magnets and occlusives as locks.  By choosing ingredients that will work with the skin, you will be able to maintain healthy moisture levels all year long.

dry or dehydrated…. that is the question

Most people use these two words interchangeably, when they are actually quite different. 

Dry skin is caused by a lack of the lipids within the stratum corneum, the outermost portion of our epidermis.  In general, this lipid content by weight is made up of 10% free fatty acids, 25% cholesterol and 50% ceramides.  These lipids are essential in the prevention of water loss. Dehydrated skin is caused by a lack of water within the skin.

Our skin is a part of our excretory system, and approximately 4-6 ounces of water pass through and out of our epidermis every day – known as transepidermal water loss or TEWL.  In order for the skin to maintain optimal health, a delicate balance is required in order to prevent excessive TEWL, which can lead to impaired barrier function.  Impaired barrier function is characterized by rough, red and flakey skin that is easily irritated and sensitive to topical products.

Maintaining this delicate balance requires drinking plenty of water to keep our dermis hydrated, using humectant ingredients topically so the epidermis is able to attract water from the dermis, and the use of skin-friendly occlusives to hold that moisture within the epidermis to prevent it from evaporating.  Examples of humectant ingredients are hyaluronic acid, urea, glycerin, sodium PCA and honey.  Occlusive ingredients that are beneficial to the skin are dimethicone, cyclomethicone, plant oils, shea butter and niacinamide.  Occlusives that should be avoided are petrolatum, lanolin and mineral oil.

Because our epidermis only allows a small amount of water to penetrate from the outside in, it is up to us to apply beneficial ingredients to keep our skin healthy and hydrated every day.