don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 3

UVB rays from the sun are thought to be responsible for the majority of UV-related skin damage, partially because of the immediate visible changes they produce. Although the inflammation and redness caused by a sunburn are the obvious downsides, it’s what’s happening inside your skin that is the most troublesome. UVB radiation is responsible for a series of events that take place inside the epidermal skin cells, including increased levels of the damaging free radical reactive oxygen species (ROS). Radicals are compounds with unpaired electrons. This lack of electron balance creates highly reactive atoms and molecules. There are many types of free radicals, but ROS have been widely studied because of their particularly damaging effects in the skin. Of the wide variety of environmental offenders, UV radiation is one of the top contributors to the overproduction of ROS free radicals and stress in the skin. ROS include hydroxyl radicals, nitric oxide, peroxynitrite, superoxide anions, peroxide, triplet oxygen and singlet oxygen. 

ROS are widely known for their ability to cause damage to cellular proteins, fats and even our DNA. The important factor for avoiding this oxidative stress and damage is keeping the skin’s radical and antioxidant levels in balance. Exposure to UV rays increases the production of ROS and upsets this balance (homeostasis) in the skin.  Using topical antioxidants in your daily care regimen is important all year but especially during the winter months when skin is dehydrated and vulnerable to damaging free radicals. In addition, UVB rays cause a reduction of the skin’s natural antioxidant levels, making it even more susceptible to DNA damage and mutation. It is this UV-induced DNA mutation that is the number one cause of skin cancers. This inevitable chain reaction in the skin is the reason the use of sunscreen ingredients alone is not enough. Sunscreen formulations should include antioxidants to help prevent the initial over-production of ROS and to support our natural defenses. Certainly, the use of SPF and antioxidants is important year-round, but it is a particularly helpful support to dry, dehydrated winter skin.

Multiple antioxidant ingredients have demonstrated benefits for reducing the incidence of ROS-induced skin cancers and premature aging. While there are thousands of topical antioxidants that are worthy of further study, one category of antioxidants worth noting is botanically sourced phenolic antioxidants.

Look for sunscreens and topical formulations with the following ingredients to boost antioxidants within the skin and protect it from UV damage:

• green tea
• resveratrol
• genistien
• ergothionene
• coffea arabica
• cocoa
• caffeine
• mangosteen
• silymarin

Many of these important ingredients can be found in all of the products in the PCA SKIN suite of sun protection products.

don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 2

A common misconception is that more protection from UV exposure is needed in the summer than in the winter. Although the strength of the sun’s UVB rays diminish slightly in the winter months, the UVA rays remain constant throughout the year, making overexposure still a threat to healthy skin. The fact that snow can reflect up to 80% of the sun’s rays, while sand only reflects 15% and water only 10%, makes a moisturizer with broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays a must in every winter skin care regimen. Skin that is already stressed, dry and dehydrated may be more susceptible to the damage caused by UV radiation and more in need of even better protection.

The sun is the primary source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV rays are broken down into UVA, UVB and UVC according to their wavelength:

• UVA – 320-400 nanometers

• UVB – 280-320 nanometers

• UVC – 200-280 nanometers

Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States with an estimated 1,000,000 new cases of non-melanoma skin cancers reported in 2008. Many people associate skin cancer with sun bathing and dismiss the UV risk during the winter months. This is not a safe assumption.  Get in the habit of wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 every day, all year.  Also, because UVA rays are constant throughout the year, be sure that your sunscreen contains one of the following UVA protective ingredients:

• avobenzone
• titanium dioxide
• zinc oxide
• encamsule

Also, don’t leave your wide-brimmed hat at home just because it’s cold outside.  With the sun being the number one cause of visible aging in the skin, avoiding unnecessary sun exposure and wearing broad-spectrum sun protection and hats daily will not only keep your skin safe, but will keep you looking younger.

don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 1

This is the first of a three-part series on why our skin suffers in winter and what steps we can take to protect it.

Winter weather is not kind to human skin. The combination of lower humidity, increased winds and cold temperatures creates the perfect storm for leaving skin dry, dehydrated and more susceptible to damage. So what can we do to keep our skin healthy and hydrated throughout the winter months? Protection. Lots of factors contribute to developing the dreaded ‘winter skin.’ By avoiding moisture loss, unprotected sun exposure and free radical damage you can keep your skin healthy and beautiful.

THE FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE

The outermost layer of the skin is called the stratum corneum (SC), and is the first line of defense against the outside world. The SC contains mostly dead skin cells and is often described as the brick and mortar of a wall. The bricks are these dead skin cells (corneocytes) that contain a complex combination of lactic acid, urea, salts and amino acids that is collectively referred to as the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The mortar is made up of groups of important fats (lipids) that organize themselves into layers creating a natural water-binding barrier for the skin.  If there is breakdown in either these ‘bricks’ or ‘mortar’ our skin loses its ability to hold onto moisture and becomes dry and sensitive.

Moisture is all-important for keeping your skin healthy at any time of year. Having enough water in the SC allows our skin to be soft and flexible. Moisture also plays a role in desquamation, which is the intricate process by which our cells turnover and are shed away from the SC. Without the proper moisture levels, the process breaks down, and dead skin cells build up on the surface, making it dull, dry and flaky. This buildup of dead cells on the skin’s surface traps dirt and debris and reduces the penetration of any topical products you apply.  This creates an even worse situation for already stressed and dehydrated skin.

Here are easy some steps you can take to keep your skin hydrated all winter:

1. Avoid using traditional soaps as these strip the skin of necessary oils and increase moisture loss and dryness.  Instead, use pH-balanced, gentle cleansers.  Those in particularly cold climates may want to switch to a cream-type cleanser for winter. A good choice is PCA SKIN creamy cleanser with gentle cleansing ingredients and an anti-aging boost form rose hip seed oil.
2. Apply moisturizers that contain both humectant ingredients to draw moisture into the skin and occlusive ingredients to trap it within.
3. Look for topical products that contain urea and glycerin, as these are the two ingredients, in addition to water, that are shown to hydrate cells internally. PCA SKIN hydrating serum contains these and other humectants and occlusive ingredients and is a great addition to any regimen.
4. Use a cool mist humidifier indoors to increase humidity levels.
5. Maintain water intake, even though the weather is cooler.

humectants and occlusives: what are they and how do they work?

Keeping the skin healthy and hydrated is important all year long, but seems to be more of a challenge as the weather becomes cooler.  We tend to think more about hydration during the summer months than in the winter.  Humectant and occlusive ingredients are key to maintaining healthy, hydrated skin. 

Humectants are ingredients that attract water.  By applying these water-loving ingredients topically, they are able to draw water towards the skin.  Some examples of humectants that are beneficial to the skin are:  glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, urea, honey, sorbitol and lactic acid.  Hyaluronic acid is a very powerful humectant in that it can attract and hold 1,000 times its weight in water, and sodium PCA can attract and hold 250 times its weight.  Urea, sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid and lactic acid are also found naturally in our bodies and in our skin, so they are readily accepted and will not cause sensitivity.

But just using humectant ingredients is not enough.  We must also employ the use of occlusives. 

Occlusives are important because they “lock” in the moisture attracted by the humectants and keep it from evaporating off the skin.  Finding occlusives that will not clog pores can be a challenge.  Avoid occlusive ingredients such as petrolatum, mineral oil and lanolin, as these will sit on the skin resulting in blocked pores, sensitivities and breakouts.  Skin-friendly occlusives include silicones (dimethicone and cyclomethicone), plant oils, squalane, shea butter and zinc oxide.

One way to remember the importance of these two ingredient categories is to think of humectants as magnets and occlusives as locks.  By choosing ingredients that will work with the skin, you will be able to maintain healthy moisture levels all year long.

dry or dehydrated…. that is the question

Most people use these two words interchangeably, when they are actually quite different. 

Dry skin is caused by a lack of the lipids within the stratum corneum, the outermost portion of our epidermis.  In general, this lipid content by weight is made up of 10% free fatty acids, 25% cholesterol and 50% ceramides.  These lipids are essential in the prevention of water loss. Dehydrated skin is caused by a lack of water within the skin.

Our skin is a part of our excretory system, and approximately 4-6 ounces of water pass through and out of our epidermis every day – known as transepidermal water loss or TEWL.  In order for the skin to maintain optimal health, a delicate balance is required in order to prevent excessive TEWL, which can lead to impaired barrier function.  Impaired barrier function is characterized by rough, red and flakey skin that is easily irritated and sensitive to topical products.

Maintaining this delicate balance requires drinking plenty of water to keep our dermis hydrated, using humectant ingredients topically so the epidermis is able to attract water from the dermis, and the use of skin-friendly occlusives to hold that moisture within the epidermis to prevent it from evaporating.  Examples of humectant ingredients are hyaluronic acid, urea, glycerin, sodium PCA and honey.  Occlusive ingredients that are beneficial to the skin are dimethicone, cyclomethicone, plant oils, shea butter and niacinamide.  Occlusives that should be avoided are petrolatum, lanolin and mineral oil.

Because our epidermis only allows a small amount of water to penetrate from the outside in, it is up to us to apply beneficial ingredients to keep our skin healthy and hydrated every day.

Not all skin is created equal

Although all skin has similar anatomy, there are surprising differences between skin in different locations on the body, and even different parts of the face. Of special concern is the delicate skin around the lips and the eyes. The differences are affected by both biological and environmental factors.

Lips

The skin on the lips is much thinner than most facial skin. Also, the lips do not have sweat glands or the same barrier function as the skin on the rest of the body, making it harder to keep smooth, free of bacteria and at the proper temperature. Also, the digestive enzymes contained in saliva can be drying and irritating to the lips and can cause chapping. To keep flakiness and irritation under control, Gentle Exfoliant and Peptide Lip Therapy by PCA SKIN are highly recommended as part of any regular daily regimen.

 

Eyes

The area around the eyes is characterized by skin that is substantially thinner than the rest of the face. In addition to the normal breakdown of collagen and elastin that weakens this skin, the constant motion of blinking, smiling and squinting stress this area even more. And, because the eye area contains almost no oil glands, it is critical to keep it properly moisturized. EyeXcellence and ExLinea® Peptide Smoothing Serum is designed to treat the unique needs of the eye area with strengthening antioxidants, peptides and other hydrating and anti-aging ingredients.

Understanding the unique needs of the skin on different parts of the face and will help you provide the best products and treatments for each patient.

Dry Skin Relief Bar featured in O Magazine®

One of our long-time PCA SKIN favorites, Dry Skin Relief Bar, has been discovered by O Magazine®!  Of course we have always known how this innovative bar fixes the worst of dry skin woes, but it is exciting that the folks at ‘O’ have called it a miracle.  If you haven’t had the opportunity to experience this one-of-a-kind soap in a jar, the time is now to give it a try.  It is appropriate for use on the face and body – you can even use it on dry, itchy scalps.  The unique formulation doesn’t just hydrate, it also removes the excess cell buildup that can be common in many dry skin conditions, leaving skin healthy and hydrated.

For more information about providing this answer to dry skin to your patients, or using it yourself, contact a member of our highly trained Practice Development Group or visit us on the web at pcaskin.com.

the power of pumpkin

This time of year, the thought of pumpkin is typically visions of pie.  Aside from is role in holiday desserts, this nutritious and delicious vegetable is also great for your skin. The natural enzymes found in pumpkin have excellent keratolytic properties and help release impacted cells from the stratum corneum, leaving the skin smooth and soft.  This is especially important in the winter months when colder temperatures and lower humidity can leave skin dry and flaky.

In the exfoliation of the skin, enzymes function differently from acids. Alpha hydroxy acids exfoliate by dissolving the bonds (desmosomes) holding cells together, while enzymes work by cleaving the bonds between amino acids that make up proteins.  Exfoliation with enzymes is typically a more gentle process than with single acid peels, and highly effective.

In addition to the excellent surface-smoothing action provided by its enzyme component, pumpkin is also a rich source of vitamins A and C, and a host of other beneficial nutrients.  Treat yourself and your patients to a professional pumpkin mask.  The result is smooth, glowing and healthy skin.  Find these ingredients in the PCA SKIN Pumpkin Peel Treatment. This treatment is especially good for acneic, breakout-prone patients or those with sluggish, dull complexions. Pumpkin Peel Treatments are a great choice for the holidays, and for healthy skin.

hydrate your skin with a chemical peel, really?

Yes, really. Unfortunately, the words ‘chemical peel’ often conjure images of a less than pleasant experience that leaves behind redness, irritation and downtime.  With the right treatment, performed by a trained professional, this outcome is not necessary.  Instead, your skin can be smooth, hydrated, healthy and glowing with no downtime at all.

One of the best ways to ensure that your moisturizers and other treatment topicals are able to penetrate into your skin to provide their intended benefit, is to minimize the amount of impacted skin cells that are lying on the surface of your skin.  A gentle blended chemical peel can do just that. Now, if it is just the removal of the dull surface layer that is the goal, that can also be accomplished with scrubs, enzymes, microdermabrasion and other exfoliation techniques.  The unique action of a well-formulated chemical peel is that it simultaneously releases the impacted surface layer while delivering hydrating, collagen-stimulating, strengthening and brightening ingredients into the skin.  This leaves skin healthy and hydrated.  Once the skin is free of the dull surface layer, any products applied topically will penetrate more efficiently to allow the skin to receive maximum benefits.

All of the PCA SKIN blended TCA peels are excellent choices for brightening, smoothing, strengthening and hydrating the skin.  There is an option for all skin types, Fitzpatrick type and skin challenge.  Sensi Peel(R), Ultra Peel(R) I and Ultra Peel(R) Forte are all excellent choices.  Call us for more information about our unparalleled chemical peels, and our educational opportunities that can prepare licensed professionals to be PCA SKIN peel experts.

tricks for having smooth, hydrated lips all year

The colder temperatures and lower humidity of the fall and winter months tend to lead to dry, chapped lips.  The skin on the lips is thinner than facial skin and does not have the natural barrier function to protect them from environmental challenges.  Also, saliva contains some of our digestive enzymes, which can be irritating and exacerbate dryness and chapping.

To fix dry lips and keep them full, hydrated and healthy all year, follow these weekly guidelines:

• Avoid licking your lips, as this is dehydrating and can lead to chapping.
• Apply peptide lip therapy twice daily to hydrate, plump and protect the delicate skin on the lips.
• Apply the appropriate PCA SKIN SPF product under peptide lip therapy in the daytime to protect from damaging UV rays.
• Perform the following protocol weekly to exfoliate, smooth and nourish the lips.

lip renewal treatment

1. Cleanse the entire face with a dime-sized amount of facial wash. Rinse with warm water and pat dry.

2. Massage a pea-sized amount of gentle exfoliant in a circular motion over the lip area. Remove with warm water.

3. Apply one pump of rejuvenating serum to help stimulate healthy cell proliferation, leading to healthier, smoother lips.

4. Apply a pea-sized amount of silkcoat® balm for soothing and maximum hydration.

5. Finish with a liberal application of peptide lip therapy.

If you perform this treatment in the daytime, remember to apply the appropriate PCA SKIN broad-spectrum SPF product before applying peptide lip therapy to protect from UV rays.

We are happy that peptide lip therapy won Prevention magazine’s 2010 Defy Your Age Beauty Award!