why doesn’t PCA SKIN recommend using acetone to prep for a peel?

To maximize the penetration and benefits of a chemical peel, peel solutions must be applied by a physician or licensed professional onto clean, degreased skin. As a strong and biocompatible solvent, it would seem that acetone would be a good choice for this purpose.  Although this is the selected method for some, acetone used prior to chemical peeling removes not only the excess sebum that could impede peel penetration, but it also removes an unnecessary amount of the essential cholesterol and lipids from the skin. This tends to leave the skin over-stripped and dry post-procedure, and in the weeks following treatment. A more gentle, yet highly effective option is Smoothing Toner.

PCA SKIN recommends Smoothing Toner to our Certified Professionals, as it is an exceptional choice for preparing skin for the application of any of the PCA SKIN peel solutions. After cleansing with Facial Wash Oily/Problem, this lactic and citric acid-based astringent gently removes any remaining debris or sebum that could reduce the penetration of the selected solution. This method has not only delivered excellent results for over 20 years, but it is a much more pleasant experience for the patient. Acetone is not an unsafe choice, but the dramatic removal of lipids from the skin can be uncomfortable on the skin. With peels that can be performed as frequently as every two weeks (depending on skin condition), an enjoyable treatment experience is obviously preferable. Achieving healthy, beautiful skin depends not only on the daily care a patient uses and the professional treatments you apply, but also relies on the compliance of the patient to return for their scheduled appointments.  Making your treatments pleasant as well as effective will help you deliver for your clientele.

don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 3

UVB rays from the sun are thought to be responsible for the majority of UV-related skin damage, partially because of the immediate visible changes they produce. Although the inflammation and redness caused by a sunburn are the obvious downsides, it’s what’s happening inside your skin that is the most troublesome. UVB radiation is responsible for a series of events that take place inside the epidermal skin cells, including increased levels of the damaging free radical reactive oxygen species (ROS). Radicals are compounds with unpaired electrons. This lack of electron balance creates highly reactive atoms and molecules. There are many types of free radicals, but ROS have been widely studied because of their particularly damaging effects in the skin. Of the wide variety of environmental offenders, UV radiation is one of the top contributors to the overproduction of ROS free radicals and stress in the skin. ROS include hydroxyl radicals, nitric oxide, peroxynitrite, superoxide anions, peroxide, triplet oxygen and singlet oxygen. 

ROS are widely known for their ability to cause damage to cellular proteins, fats and even our DNA. The important factor for avoiding this oxidative stress and damage is keeping the skin’s radical and antioxidant levels in balance. Exposure to UV rays increases the production of ROS and upsets this balance (homeostasis) in the skin.  Using topical antioxidants in your daily care regimen is important all year but especially during the winter months when skin is dehydrated and vulnerable to damaging free radicals. In addition, UVB rays cause a reduction of the skin’s natural antioxidant levels, making it even more susceptible to DNA damage and mutation. It is this UV-induced DNA mutation that is the number one cause of skin cancers. This inevitable chain reaction in the skin is the reason the use of sunscreen ingredients alone is not enough. Sunscreen formulations should include antioxidants to help prevent the initial over-production of ROS and to support our natural defenses. Certainly, the use of SPF and antioxidants is important year-round, but it is a particularly helpful support to dry, dehydrated winter skin.

Multiple antioxidant ingredients have demonstrated benefits for reducing the incidence of ROS-induced skin cancers and premature aging. While there are thousands of topical antioxidants that are worthy of further study, one category of antioxidants worth noting is botanically sourced phenolic antioxidants.

Look for sunscreens and topical formulations with the following ingredients to boost antioxidants within the skin and protect it from UV damage:

• green tea
• resveratrol
• genistien
• ergothionene
• coffea arabica
• cocoa
• caffeine
• mangosteen
• silymarin

Many of these important ingredients can be found in all of the products in the PCA SKIN suite of sun protection products.

don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 2

A common misconception is that more protection from UV exposure is needed in the summer than in the winter. Although the strength of the sun’s UVB rays diminish slightly in the winter months, the UVA rays remain constant throughout the year, making overexposure still a threat to healthy skin. The fact that snow can reflect up to 80% of the sun’s rays, while sand only reflects 15% and water only 10%, makes a moisturizer with broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays a must in every winter skin care regimen. Skin that is already stressed, dry and dehydrated may be more susceptible to the damage caused by UV radiation and more in need of even better protection.

The sun is the primary source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV rays are broken down into UVA, UVB and UVC according to their wavelength:

• UVA – 320-400 nanometers

• UVB – 280-320 nanometers

• UVC – 200-280 nanometers

Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States with an estimated 1,000,000 new cases of non-melanoma skin cancers reported in 2008. Many people associate skin cancer with sun bathing and dismiss the UV risk during the winter months. This is not a safe assumption.  Get in the habit of wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 every day, all year.  Also, because UVA rays are constant throughout the year, be sure that your sunscreen contains one of the following UVA protective ingredients:

• avobenzone
• titanium dioxide
• zinc oxide
• encamsule

Also, don’t leave your wide-brimmed hat at home just because it’s cold outside.  With the sun being the number one cause of visible aging in the skin, avoiding unnecessary sun exposure and wearing broad-spectrum sun protection and hats daily will not only keep your skin safe, but will keep you looking younger.

don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 1

This is the first of a three-part series on why our skin suffers in winter and what steps we can take to protect it.

Winter weather is not kind to human skin. The combination of lower humidity, increased winds and cold temperatures creates the perfect storm for leaving skin dry, dehydrated and more susceptible to damage. So what can we do to keep our skin healthy and hydrated throughout the winter months? Protection. Lots of factors contribute to developing the dreaded ‘winter skin.’ By avoiding moisture loss, unprotected sun exposure and free radical damage you can keep your skin healthy and beautiful.

THE FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE

The outermost layer of the skin is called the stratum corneum (SC), and is the first line of defense against the outside world. The SC contains mostly dead skin cells and is often described as the brick and mortar of a wall. The bricks are these dead skin cells (corneocytes) that contain a complex combination of lactic acid, urea, salts and amino acids that is collectively referred to as the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The mortar is made up of groups of important fats (lipids) that organize themselves into layers creating a natural water-binding barrier for the skin.  If there is breakdown in either these ‘bricks’ or ‘mortar’ our skin loses its ability to hold onto moisture and becomes dry and sensitive.

Moisture is all-important for keeping your skin healthy at any time of year. Having enough water in the SC allows our skin to be soft and flexible. Moisture also plays a role in desquamation, which is the intricate process by which our cells turnover and are shed away from the SC. Without the proper moisture levels, the process breaks down, and dead skin cells build up on the surface, making it dull, dry and flaky. This buildup of dead cells on the skin’s surface traps dirt and debris and reduces the penetration of any topical products you apply.  This creates an even worse situation for already stressed and dehydrated skin.

Here are easy some steps you can take to keep your skin hydrated all winter:

1. Avoid using traditional soaps as these strip the skin of necessary oils and increase moisture loss and dryness.  Instead, use pH-balanced, gentle cleansers.  Those in particularly cold climates may want to switch to a cream-type cleanser for winter. A good choice is PCA SKIN creamy cleanser with gentle cleansing ingredients and an anti-aging boost form rose hip seed oil.
2. Apply moisturizers that contain both humectant ingredients to draw moisture into the skin and occlusive ingredients to trap it within.
3. Look for topical products that contain urea and glycerin, as these are the two ingredients, in addition to water, that are shown to hydrate cells internally. PCA SKIN hydrating serum contains these and other humectants and occlusive ingredients and is a great addition to any regimen.
4. Use a cool mist humidifier indoors to increase humidity levels.
5. Maintain water intake, even though the weather is cooler.

humectants and occlusives: what are they and how do they work?

Keeping the skin healthy and hydrated is important all year long, but seems to be more of a challenge as the weather becomes cooler.  We tend to think more about hydration during the summer months than in the winter.  Humectant and occlusive ingredients are key to maintaining healthy, hydrated skin. 

Humectants are ingredients that attract water.  By applying these water-loving ingredients topically, they are able to draw water towards the skin.  Some examples of humectants that are beneficial to the skin are:  glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, urea, honey, sorbitol and lactic acid.  Hyaluronic acid is a very powerful humectant in that it can attract and hold 1,000 times its weight in water, and sodium PCA can attract and hold 250 times its weight.  Urea, sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid and lactic acid are also found naturally in our bodies and in our skin, so they are readily accepted and will not cause sensitivity.

But just using humectant ingredients is not enough.  We must also employ the use of occlusives. 

Occlusives are important because they “lock” in the moisture attracted by the humectants and keep it from evaporating off the skin.  Finding occlusives that will not clog pores can be a challenge.  Avoid occlusive ingredients such as petrolatum, mineral oil and lanolin, as these will sit on the skin resulting in blocked pores, sensitivities and breakouts.  Skin-friendly occlusives include silicones (dimethicone and cyclomethicone), plant oils, squalane, shea butter and zinc oxide.

One way to remember the importance of these two ingredient categories is to think of humectants as magnets and occlusives as locks.  By choosing ingredients that will work with the skin, you will be able to maintain healthy moisture levels all year long.

dry or dehydrated…. that is the question

Most people use these two words interchangeably, when they are actually quite different. 

Dry skin is caused by a lack of the lipids within the stratum corneum, the outermost portion of our epidermis.  In general, this lipid content by weight is made up of 10% free fatty acids, 25% cholesterol and 50% ceramides.  These lipids are essential in the prevention of water loss. Dehydrated skin is caused by a lack of water within the skin.

Our skin is a part of our excretory system, and approximately 4-6 ounces of water pass through and out of our epidermis every day – known as transepidermal water loss or TEWL.  In order for the skin to maintain optimal health, a delicate balance is required in order to prevent excessive TEWL, which can lead to impaired barrier function.  Impaired barrier function is characterized by rough, red and flakey skin that is easily irritated and sensitive to topical products.

Maintaining this delicate balance requires drinking plenty of water to keep our dermis hydrated, using humectant ingredients topically so the epidermis is able to attract water from the dermis, and the use of skin-friendly occlusives to hold that moisture within the epidermis to prevent it from evaporating.  Examples of humectant ingredients are hyaluronic acid, urea, glycerin, sodium PCA and honey.  Occlusive ingredients that are beneficial to the skin are dimethicone, cyclomethicone, plant oils, shea butter and niacinamide.  Occlusives that should be avoided are petrolatum, lanolin and mineral oil.

Because our epidermis only allows a small amount of water to penetrate from the outside in, it is up to us to apply beneficial ingredients to keep our skin healthy and hydrated every day.