Oprah loves Weightless Protection SPF 45!

The May issue of O magazine has hit the shelves and guess what made The O List? PCA SKIN Weightless Protection SPF 45! Since its launch in 2010, this light, quick-absorbing sun protection powerhouse has quickly become a customer favorite. Now it seems it’s become one of Oprah’s favorites, too.

Weightless Protection SPF 45 is a revolutionary formulation that provides broad-spectrum protection with zinc oxide and octinoxate. Part of what makes this sun protection product unique is caffeine, an amazing topical ingredient that increases the activity of other antioxidants and also identifies cells damaged by UV exposure and forces them into apoptosis – the process of cell death.  This is an unprecedented boost to skin cancer prevention. Also, the powerful antioxidant sylibin from milk thistle fight free radicals, suppresses redness caused by exposure to UVB rays and reduces the formation of sunburn cells. Because it is so light and disappears into the skin, especially people with oily skin and acne love this product.  This member of the PCA SKIN family of sun protection products truly is the next generation of sun protection, and we’re glad that Oprah agrees! 

what is apoptosis?

Apoptosis, also called cell death, is a complex and important process within our bodies. It results in specific cells being targeted, completely engulfed and eliminated. Although ‘cell death’ doesn’t sound like a positive process in the body, apoptosis performs important functions in fetal development, as well as keeping the skin free from mutated cells that can potentially lead to cancers.

During fetal development, the cells between the fingers and toes are targeted for apoptosis.  If this process were not to occur, we would have webbed hands and feet. As it relates to skin cancer prevention, apoptosis contributes to the ridding of damaged cells from the skin. First, cells that are injured by UV exposure and other environmental offenders are identified. Then, cells called killer T cells communicate with the damaged cell and move to engulf it. The process continues with other biomolecules and proteins being summoned to participate in the breakdown and elimination of the mutated cell. Without this process, cells whose DNA has been damaged by UV radiation would be allowed to reproduce, resulting in the development of tumors.

An exciting ingredient that helps facilitate the process of targeting skin cells that have been damaged by UV exposure and instigating the process of apoptosis is caffeine.  This powerhouse ingredient not only increases the antioxidant capabilities of other polyphenols, but also helps prevent cells with compromised DNA from reproducing and potentially causing skin cancer tumors.  You can find topical caffeine along with the powerful antioxidant silybin in the whole range of PCA SKIN sun protection products including: Weightless Protection SPF 45, Perfecting Protection SPF 30, Protecting Hydrator SPF 30, Hydrator Plus SPF 30 and Active Very Water/Sweat Resistant SPF 45.

the truth about indoor tanning

There was a time when many thought that indoor tanning was actually a good thing. People would routinely tan indoors prior to vacations to avoid getting a sunburn from outdoor exposure.  The truth is that indoor tanning is a highly dangerous activity that increases skin cancer risks dramatically. Researchers at Brigham and Women’s Hospital and Harvard Medical School collected data from over 73,000 female nurses from 1989-2009. The research indicated that not only are younger tanners at a higher risk, but even just ONE indoor tanning visit a year increased a woman’s likelihood of developing basal cell carcinoma by 10%. Six or more visits increased that chance by 82%.   Just four tanning sessions increased the chances of non-melanoma skin cancers by 15% and melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, by 11%. Melanoma is projected to kill 8,790 Americans this year alone. Those are scary numbers.

In addition to the increased cancer risks, indoor tanning creates oxidative damage and increases the visible signs of aging.  The moral of this story is that any tanning is dangerous. To maintain healthy and beautiful skin, indoor tanning should be avoided and daily use of  broad-spectrum UV protection should become habit. Feel free to contact us at PCA SKIN with any questions you may have about protecting yourself from UV damage and skin cancer or to find the best sun protection product for your skin.

antioxidants: multifunctional ingredients – part one

As one of the important systems in the body, the skin strives for a state of balance (homeostasis). Oxidative stress occurs as a result of many internal and external factors and disrupts this homeostasis.  Free radicals are molecules or ions with unpaired electrons that create oxidative stress and contribute to aging and disease. Our own cells’ mitochondria create free radicals as a result of normal cell metabolism.   UV rays, pollution and chemotherapeutic drugs are just some of the external sources that can also create oxidative stress in the skin.  Although our bodies contain their own natural antioxidant defense system, supplementation is typically necessary to fight oxidative stress and the resulting skin damage. Topically applied and orally administered antioxidants provide this needed protection.

 There are several levels of antioxidant function: primary antioxidants, secondary antioxidants and co-antioxidants.  Primary antioxidants act by donating an electron to disarm a free radical.  Secondary antioxidants chelate metal ions that are rich with electrons.  These metal ions are capable of triggering oxidation by donating or taking an electron.  By removing these metals, secondary antioxidants eliminate potential radical initiators.  Other molecules function as co-antioxidants.  These function by facilitating the antioxidant activity of other compounds.  Most antioxidants have a primary mechanism of action, but may have multiple functions.

UVB rays from the sun are the primary cause of a decrease in the antioxidant levels naturally found in the skin as well as an increase in reactive oxygen species (ROS), a particularly damaging free radical to the skin.  Because of this, regular use of broad-spectrum UV protection along with diligent application or topical antioxidants is necessary to help the skin’s system fight off oxidative stress.  This strategy will help protect skin from the premature aging caused by the sun as well as minimizing the chances of skin cancer.  PCA SKIN strongly believes that antioxidants are important for total skin health.

Next week we will outline some of the best antioxidants for your own skin care regimens.

don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 3

UVB rays from the sun are thought to be responsible for the majority of UV-related skin damage, partially because of the immediate visible changes they produce. Although the inflammation and redness caused by a sunburn are the obvious downsides, it’s what’s happening inside your skin that is the most troublesome. UVB radiation is responsible for a series of events that take place inside the epidermal skin cells, including increased levels of the damaging free radical reactive oxygen species (ROS). Radicals are compounds with unpaired electrons. This lack of electron balance creates highly reactive atoms and molecules. There are many types of free radicals, but ROS have been widely studied because of their particularly damaging effects in the skin. Of the wide variety of environmental offenders, UV radiation is one of the top contributors to the overproduction of ROS free radicals and stress in the skin. ROS include hydroxyl radicals, nitric oxide, peroxynitrite, superoxide anions, peroxide, triplet oxygen and singlet oxygen. 

ROS are widely known for their ability to cause damage to cellular proteins, fats and even our DNA. The important factor for avoiding this oxidative stress and damage is keeping the skin’s radical and antioxidant levels in balance. Exposure to UV rays increases the production of ROS and upsets this balance (homeostasis) in the skin.  Using topical antioxidants in your daily care regimen is important all year but especially during the winter months when skin is dehydrated and vulnerable to damaging free radicals. In addition, UVB rays cause a reduction of the skin’s natural antioxidant levels, making it even more susceptible to DNA damage and mutation. It is this UV-induced DNA mutation that is the number one cause of skin cancers. This inevitable chain reaction in the skin is the reason the use of sunscreen ingredients alone is not enough. Sunscreen formulations should include antioxidants to help prevent the initial over-production of ROS and to support our natural defenses. Certainly, the use of SPF and antioxidants is important year-round, but it is a particularly helpful support to dry, dehydrated winter skin.

Multiple antioxidant ingredients have demonstrated benefits for reducing the incidence of ROS-induced skin cancers and premature aging. While there are thousands of topical antioxidants that are worthy of further study, one category of antioxidants worth noting is botanically sourced phenolic antioxidants.

Look for sunscreens and topical formulations with the following ingredients to boost antioxidants within the skin and protect it from UV damage:

• green tea
• resveratrol
• genistien
• ergothionene
• coffea arabica
• cocoa
• caffeine
• mangosteen
• silymarin

Many of these important ingredients can be found in all of the products in the PCA SKIN suite of sun protection products.

don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 2

A common misconception is that more protection from UV exposure is needed in the summer than in the winter. Although the strength of the sun’s UVB rays diminish slightly in the winter months, the UVA rays remain constant throughout the year, making overexposure still a threat to healthy skin. The fact that snow can reflect up to 80% of the sun’s rays, while sand only reflects 15% and water only 10%, makes a moisturizer with broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays a must in every winter skin care regimen. Skin that is already stressed, dry and dehydrated may be more susceptible to the damage caused by UV radiation and more in need of even better protection.

The sun is the primary source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV rays are broken down into UVA, UVB and UVC according to their wavelength:

• UVA – 320-400 nanometers

• UVB – 280-320 nanometers

• UVC – 200-280 nanometers

Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States with an estimated 1,000,000 new cases of non-melanoma skin cancers reported in 2008. Many people associate skin cancer with sun bathing and dismiss the UV risk during the winter months. This is not a safe assumption.  Get in the habit of wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 every day, all year.  Also, because UVA rays are constant throughout the year, be sure that your sunscreen contains one of the following UVA protective ingredients:

• avobenzone
• titanium dioxide
• zinc oxide
• encamsule

Also, don’t leave your wide-brimmed hat at home just because it’s cold outside.  With the sun being the number one cause of visible aging in the skin, avoiding unnecessary sun exposure and wearing broad-spectrum sun protection and hats daily will not only keep your skin safe, but will keep you looking younger.

smoking and the skin

While the month of November brings to mind fall leaves, pumpkins and giving thanks, it also marks the American Cancer Society’s annual Great American Smokeout.  November 17 is the date for this year’s 36^th Great American Smokeout, reminding smokers to either mark this day as a time to quit smoking permanently or to refrain from smoking for just this one day. 

Interestingly enough, most people begin to smoke as teenagers, thinking that it will make them appear older.  This thought couldn’t be farther from the truth!  In fact, smoking does exactly that!

Smoking is one of the most controllable causes of disease and death today.  It is known for directly contributing to heart and lung disease, but the damaging effects to the skin are less known and often ignored.  Smoking can cause poor wound-healing, collagen degradation, abnormal skin growths, oral cancers, deep wrinkling and premature skin aging, as well as a dull, sallow appearance.

Healthy skin function requires oxygen, and smoking causes a restriction of oxygen flow to the skin cells.  One cigarette causes vasoconstriction for up to 90 minutes.  Additionally, the carbon monoxide in cigarettes binds with oxygen and prevents it from reaching the skin cells.  Smoking also causes an increase in the enzyme responsible for breaking down collagen.  This accelerated degradation of collagen in conjunction with the repeated lip-pursing and eye-squinting during inhalation also contributes to increased severity of wrinkling and skin aging ……. especially in female smokers.

Professional treatments that encourage oxygenation and detoxification to the skin will improve the appearance and health of all skin types, especially those who smoke.  PCA SKIN’s Oxygenating Trio Treatment is an excellent choice, as it may be performed weekly and will increase oxygenation and the cells’ ability to detoxify, resulting in a radiant, healthy glow.

what about self- and spray-tanning products?

The link between melanoma, the most dangerous form of skin cancer, and tanning beds is becoming more and more evident.  Over-exposure to UV rays is also a contributing factor to both skin cancer and the visible signs of aging.  Even with the frightening statistics regarding skin cancer and tanning, those who prefer the look of a tan are less likely to embrace a lighter skin tone, and are less likely to give up their tanning habits.

One suitable alternative would be self-tanning products.  These are available in almost every price range and color.  Spray tanning is also becoming a popular and profitable alternative within the salon and aesthetic industries.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, self-tanning sprays and lotions are the most effective alternatives to sun exposure or tanning bed use.  Lotions produce a tan over a longer period of time, and a spray tan will deliver instant color.

The active ingredient in self-tanning products is called dihydroxyacetone.  A colorless sugar, dihydroxyacetone interacts with the dead skin cells in the stratum corneum, which induces a color change.  As the skin cells slough off, so does the “tan.”  Because our stratum corneum is constantly sloughing, both self-tanning lotions and sprays require constant maintenance (which provides a continued source of income for the practice offering these types of products and services).

Skin cancer is a reality, and it is up to every clinician to educate their patients about the importance of SPF use and safe alternatives to harmful tanning habits.

the importance of broad-spectrum

Some of our customers have asked us why we chose to use both physical and chemical sunscreen ingredients in our new suite of sun protection products.  The current sun protection factor (SPF) number rating system only identifies the amount of UVB protection a sunscreen product provides.  This has led some to feel that they are being misled by the makers of these products, as there is the UVA spectrum to consider, as well.  A new rating system for identifying the amount of UVA protection a product offers is under consideration that could be helpful to consumers when looking for true broad-spectrum protection.

Although UVA protection is vitally important to healthy skin, it is important not to forget about UVB rays. UVB are the rays which were originally identified as cancer-causing and which are capable of producing much more cutaneous harm than UVA rays. The most complete and successful protection demonstrated to date for UVB defense is a combination of zinc oxide and octinoxate.  Sunscreens containing only zinc oxide or a combination of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide offer less complete protection than one containing both zinc oxide and octinoxate.

Additionally, products containing solely zinc oxide or titanium dioxide tend to be very thick and not appealing for daily use.  Wearing broad-spectrum protection every day, not just when on the beach or expecting extended exposure, is the key to keeping skin healthy and avoiding premature aging of the skin and some cancers.

We chose to provide this proven combination of physical and chemical agents to offer our PCA SKIN customers the best possible protection available in a suite of cosmetically elegant sunscreens they would love to wear daily.

What is the Hayflick limit?

Leonard Hayflick observed that cells dividing in cell culture divided about 50 times before dying.  This limited number of times that a cell can divide before it loses its ability to replicate is called the Hayflick limit, in his honor.  The knowledge of this limit has raised concern that peeling the skin may cause the epidermal cells to reach this Hayflick limit faster, making it appear old sooner.

Althought the Hayflick limit is real, we luckily have stem cells in our skin that are able to produce new cells to replace the expired cells.  Unlike regular cells, stem cells do not have a Hayflick limit. Because these skin stem cells continuously replace the terminated cells, it is not possible to perform too many exfoliation treatments.

The Hayflick limit has an important purpose.  It is the process by which our bodies control the production of mutant genes by limiting the number of times the DNA of a cell can be replicated. The Hayflick limit is a good thing.  It insures that old cells are destroyed before they can mutate and cause cancers.  So, fear not, PCA SKIN peels performed by licensed professionals will not cause your skin to appear old before its time. Instead, they help keep the skin’s cell turnover rate at its optimum, giving skin of any age a healthy, youthful glow.