the future of retinol is here

Retinoids (vitamin A) have long been seen by dermatologists as the gold standard for treating acne and aging skin. The prescription options contain retinoic acid, the retinoid that interacts directly with the receptors in the skin. Although highly effective, these prescriptions can cause irritation, redness and even skin cracking for some patients. On the other hand, retinol, also a vitamin A, is converted into retinoic acid in the skin on an ‘as needed’ basis, so it produces less surface stimulation. This makes retinol a great option for many skin types and conditions.

Retinol is not new to cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The majority of products available without a prescription are formulated using what is called a retinol complex. This is retinol blended with either retinol esters or other support ingredients that stabilize the retinol and increase its efficacy. These are beneficial, but the percentage of pure retinol is only part of the complex, so although they deliver excellent visible results without irritation and redness, those results usually come more slowly. In contrast, pure retinol products deliver amazing results that can truly rival that of a prescription. These products must use advanced stabilization technologies to protect the inherently unstable retinoid. We at PCA have done just that. Newly available, Intensive Clarity o.5% pure retinol night and Intensive Age Refining 0.5% pure retinol night provide unprecedented results.

These two new formulas are also special because they do not take a one-size-fits-all approach. Intensive Clarity incorporates additional support ingredients that make it excellent for breakout control and hyperpigmentation.  Intensive Age Refining is designed to correct the variety of challenges faced by aging skin including: fine lines, sun damage, laxity and dehydration. These new formulas have already been recognized by beauty editors at O Magazine, Vogue and Redbook! We are excited to share the best in pure retinol. Give us a call, or visit pcaskin.com to find out more about the future of retinol.

AHA, BHA and PHA.. what are they and what is the difference?

AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) are acids that are derived from fruits, nuts, milk or sugars. They are hydrophilic (attracted to water) and break down the bonds between cells (desmosomes) to allow for easier exfoliation. The most commonly used AHA are:

glycolic acid (derived from sugars) is degreasing and is effective for controlling sebum production.

malic acid (derived from apples) is hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration.

tartaric acid (derived from grapes) is antioxidant.

mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds) helps control pigment.

citric acid (derived from citrus fruits and corn) is anti-aging, brightening and increases epidermal thickness.

lactic acid (derived from milk and sugars) is antimicrobial, hydrating, inhibits pigment and adjusts pH.

Alpha hydroxy acids are commonly used in skin care to brighten the skin by increasing exfoliation. Citric and lactic acids are beneficial in that they are both biocompatible and have multiple benefits.

 BHA (beta hydroxy acids), the most common of which is salicylic acid, is derived from willow tree bark, wintergreen oil or sweet birch. Because salicylic acid is lipophilic (attracted to oil) and keratolytic, it is able to penetrate the oils in the skin and clear out follicles of excess debris and skin cells, making it especially effective in  the treatment of acneic skin conditions.

PHA (poly hydroxy acids) function the same as AHA, but cause less irritation due to their larger molecular size. They are especially beneficial in treating sensitive skin types that may not be able to tolerate AHA.  They provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well as assist with exfoliation. Some common PHA are:

 lactobionic acid (derived from lactose found in cow’s milk) is humectant, antioxidant and soothing.

galactose is a sugar utilized in glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis, and cell migration, which may enhance wound healing.

gluconic acid (a naturally occurring ingredient in cells), also known as gluconolactone in skin care products, is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, while possessing AHA properties

 AHA, BHA and PHA are beneficial ingredients to the skin and can be found in many PCA SKIN daily care and professional treatments.  When used in harmony, they can be beneficial to all skin conditions and skin types.

the benefits of oxygen

Oxygen has many benefits to the skin, one is its ability to help in the fight against acne.  Acne is one of the most common skin conditions in America. More serious grades of acne can cause permanent scarring and skin damage, but even mild to moderate acne can cause a person severe emotional damage. Using targeted methods to clear acne quickly can help truly change a person’s life.  One important piece of the acne-clearing puzzle is oxygen.

The bacteria that proliferate and fuel acne are called proionibacterium acnes (P. acnes).  These bacteria are anaerobic, meaning they cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. Many of the time tested acne-controlling ingredients work by delivering oxygen into the follicle where the bacteria thrive, therefore killing them off.  One of these ingredients is benzoyl peroxide.  Another oxygen-delivering ingredient is hydrogen peroxide.

If you remember skinning your knee as a child and having hydrogen peroxide put on your cut it would foam.  This was the hydrogen peroxide working to kill bacteria so your cut wouldn’t get infected.  A product that provides this same type of action for the skin(without the foaming) is PCA SKIN Detox Gel deep pore treatment.  This professional treatment provides the skin with low level AHA as well as stabilized hydrogen peroxide to kill bacteria and detox the skin.  It is gentle and effective and can be used on acne, breakouts, dull or sluggish complexions, as well as on smokers who’s skin is chronically deprived of oxygen.

So give your patients healthy skin with a breath of fresh air.

back to school and acne

The first day back to school is a fond memory for most of us. Wearing those new shoes and clothes, packing up perfectly organized binders and freshly sharpened pencils, and running to meet friends you haven’t seen all summer. However, for the acne sufferer, back to school means back to the frustration of dealing with pimples looking back at you in the mirror every morning.

Puberty is typically when androgen hormones trigger excess sebum production, which is a contributing factor to the pathogenesis of acne. Many times, acne sufferers will use harsh, alcohol toners and high-percentages of active ingredients, such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, in hopes of ‘drying’ out the oil. Oil-free products are also alluring because they promote the idea that products without oil are best, since acneic skin is already oily. However, both of these thought processes need further explanation.

It’s true that benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid are effective in preventing and clearing acne lesions.  Look for products that are formulated not only with these actives, but with other beneficial ingredients that provide needed hydration, keratolytic action and antioxidant protection.

Don’t be fooled by ‘oil-free’ products. It is important to understand that some oils are beneficial in the treatment of this skin condition.  By using beneficial oils for acne, the skin “thinks” it has enough sebum and, therefore, produces less.  When we strip the skin of its natural oils, the opposite happens, and the skin will produce even more sebum to make up for the loss. Grape seed oil, for example, is healing and functions as an antioxidant.  Jojoba seed oil is composed of liquid wax esters and not actually oil. Because it closely resembles our natural sebum, topical use helps to control sebum production.  It also has the ability to dissolve and remove excess sebum.

PCA SKIN® provides several products for acne that are formulated with antioxidants, proven anti-acne actives, beneficial oils, and soothing and hydrating ingredients, such as the BPO 5% Cleanser, Acne Cream, Acne Gel and Clearskin, to name a few.  These products are also featured in our Breakout Control and Acne Control Solutions. 

PS:  Our trial-size solution sets are perfect for keeping in school lockers too!

another long-standing PCA SKIN® favorite takes a leap into the future

The Oxygenating Trio has been part of PCA SKIN’s professional treatment offerings for over a decade. It has long been a favorite amongst PCA SKIN customers and their patients. Although it has always been a highly effective treatment, the science of product formulation has advanced by leaps and bounds over the decades since Oxy Trio was first formulated. The new Oxygenating Trio is still a three-step system, although the names of the steps have been changed to Activator, Detoxifier and Oxygenator to better reveal the part each plays in achieving healthy, beautiful skin.

Environmental and oxidative stress wreaks havoc on the skin and speeds up the aging process, leading to dull, sluggish complexions. The newly reformulated Oxygenating Trio is the skin’s best defense against these external factors. A combination of superoxide dismutase, fumaric acid, niacinamide, hydrolyzed candida saitoana extract and stabilized hydrogen peroxide provides antioxidant therapy to stimulate oxygenation and circulation, revitalizing damaged skin by bringing oxygen to the surface. AHA and BHA reduce inflammation and promote exfoliation, while also providing essential hydration. Even more dramatic and immediate results can be achieved with these revolutionary treatment improvements. Use the Oxy Trio to help clear acne, on smoker’s skin, or simply to reveal the radiant, healthy skin beneath the surface.

the power of pumpkin

This time of year, the thought of pumpkin is typically visions of pie.  Aside from is role in holiday desserts, this nutritious and delicious vegetable is also great for your skin. The natural enzymes found in pumpkin have excellent keratolytic properties and help release impacted cells from the stratum corneum, leaving the skin smooth and soft.  This is especially important in the winter months when colder temperatures and lower humidity can leave skin dry and flaky.

In the exfoliation of the skin, enzymes function differently from acids. Alpha hydroxy acids exfoliate by dissolving the bonds (desmosomes) holding cells together, while enzymes work by cleaving the bonds between amino acids that make up proteins.  Exfoliation with enzymes is typically a more gentle process than with single acid peels, and highly effective.

In addition to the excellent surface-smoothing action provided by its enzyme component, pumpkin is also a rich source of vitamins A and C, and a host of other beneficial nutrients.  Treat yourself and your patients to a professional pumpkin mask.  The result is smooth, glowing and healthy skin.  Find these ingredients in the PCA SKIN Pumpkin Peel Treatment. This treatment is especially good for acneic, breakout-prone patients or those with sluggish, dull complexions. Pumpkin Peel Treatments are a great choice for the holidays, and for healthy skin.

gluconolactone is a breakout-busting powerhouse

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that work in lots of ways to minimize breakouts and contribute to a healthy, clear complexion. This antioxidant acts as a gentle replacement to alpha hydroxy acids.  Its mild exfoliating properties help to reduce surface build-up and reduce the incidence of blocked pores. It also has a strong anti-inflammatory effect and has been proven to significantly reduce the number of both inflamed and non-inflamed breakouts. Gluconolactone may also function by scavenging free radicals, thereby protecting skin from the damaging effects of UV radiation. While many ingredients designed to help clear problem skin can be drying or irritating, gluconolactone also provides moisturizing and barrier strengthening properties.

Although the PCA SKIN BPO 5% cleanser and acne cream have long been industry standards of care, they both now deliver the additional benefits provided by gluconolactone.  These two new and improved formulations are quickly becoming favorites of PCA SKIN Certified Professionals and patients alike!

yes, all of your patients need moisturizer during the summer

As summer kicks into high gear, many patients stop using their moisturizers that were necessary during the cold dry winter months.  Especially in particularly humid climates, wearing sunscreen moisturizers daily can feel unbearable, especially to those with oily skin.  Even some patients with dry skin feel their winter nighttime moisturizer is too rich during summer.  Regardless of skin type, everyone needs a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sun protection moisturizer every day and some type of hydration in the evening.  The key to keeping all your patients’ skin healthy year-round is re-assessing skin health needs as the seasons change.

Oily skin- Your patients with oily skin and acne may not need an emollient moisturizer, but they do need to keep the moisture in their skin at appropriate levels in order to minimize the chances of over-drying the skin.  When skin becomes dehydrated, the sebaceous glands respond by increasing sebum production, which is clearly not a plus for someone with already oily skin.  UVA/UVB sun protection moisturizers with a light texture and anti-inflammatory benefits are the best choice for oily/acneic patients.  For evening moisture, choose either a light antibacterial hydrator like clearskin, that provides essential fatty acids to help keep skin balanced and free of excess sebum production or hydrating serum, that will keep intracellular moisture levels balanced without the surface texture of a moisturizer.

Dry skin- Most patients that experience dry skin will typically feel some relief as summer approaches and humidity levels rise.  These patients should, of course, continue the daily use of their broad-spectrum sun protection. Some may choose an SPF with matte finish during summer. There is less concern that these patients will discontinue the use of evening moisturizer altogether, but there may be better options for them during hotter months. Those who use silkcoat® balm or collagen hydrator in winter may appreciate a switch to the lighter après peel® hydrating balm.  The soy-derived antioxidant genestein provides protective anti-inflammatory benefits that are particularly useful during times of increased UV exposure.

Taking the time to meet with your patients as the seasons change to ensure they are using the appropriate daily care products reinforces your relationship with them, and helps deepen patient-clinician trust.  Feel free to call any of our highly-trained Practice Development team members for suggestions about how to adjust your patients’ regimens for optimum year-round skin health.

life is a bowl of cherries.

The importance of berries in our diets has been top of mind in recent years.  As we know, the benefits of something internally is not always the same when applied topically.  Cherries are a great example of a berry that is excellent from a dietary perspective and also has amazing topical benefits.   At PCA SKIN, we use two different types of cherries: Prunus Avium (Sweet Cherry) Extract and Prunus Serotina (Wild Cherry) Bark Extract.  Both are excellent sources of anthocyanidin and proanthocyanidin flavonoids. These are natural antioxidant compounds that disarm free radicals that can damage healthy cells.  They are powerful anti-inflammatory ingredients and also contribute to the integrity of capillaries and collagen structures.

They both can be found in Clarifying Mask, providing excellent antioxidant benefits and artfully balancing the potential heat of straight salicylic acid.  This combination makes Clarifying Mask a great choice for treating breakout-prone skin and acne, as well as papulopustular rosacea (subtype 2).  Avoiding treatments that create excessive heat is important for patients with rosacea, yet salicylic acid has the ability to penetrate into block follicles to clear breakouts.  So, combining this effective beta hydroxy acid with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant cherry extracts creates the perfect option for rosacea patients. Note that Clarifying Mask is removed after only two to three minutes when treating rosacea as opposed to ten minutes when treating more resilient acne patients.  Clarifying Mask is also a good choice for patients who do not want to see visible exfoliation post-treatment.

Let your patients’ skin enjoy the benefits of berries.

licorice for skin health

Licorice is not only a delicious sweet treat it is also a multi-faceted and hard working skin care ingredient.  Here at PCA SKIN®, we formulate our products using ingredients that offer multiple skin health benefits.  Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is just such an ingredient. It contains components that work to fight inflammation, bacteria and the deposit of unwanted pigment.  Some important components are:

Glycyrrhetinic acid

The molecular structure of glycyrrhetinic acid is similar to that of cortisone. This might be the basis for licorice’s anti-inflammatory action.

 Licochalcone

Licochalcone provides powerful antibacterial action.  It is a great choice for treating acne and rosacea. Lichochalcone also reduces sebum production, inhibits 5 alpha-reductase and fights lipase, the enzyme produced by the acne bacteria that causes local irritation.

 Glabridin

Licorice’s work as a melanogenesis inhibitor (by inhibiting tyrosinase activity) is due to its glabridin content.  This ingredient also provides anti-inflammatory benefits, which is critical to preventing unwanted pigment production.

Find Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, with all of its many benefits, in the following PCA SKIN daily care products:

• A&C synergy serum
• eyeXcellence
• perfecting face & body hydrator SPF 30
• acne gel.