Reading your patients’ minds

Have you ever wondered what someone is really thinking when you speak to them?  Unfortunately, we can’t always know what someone is thinking, but there are a few words that are regularly used in the aesthetic industry that can create different pictures in our patients’ minds that are completely different from what we are trying to explain to them……

Chemical Peel – We as professionals have a good idea of what this means, but think about what is going on in the patient’s mind.  Just the word “chemical” conjures up all kinds of images from rusty drums of who-knows-what oozing into a river; swimming pool chemicals, or a cupboard full of hazardous cleaning supplies.  What scary thoughts when you’re trying to explain what you may be putting on someone’s face.  Be sure to explain what you are truly speaking about (ingredients, application method, etc.) and remind your patient that water is also a “chemical.”

Peel – Now add the word “peel” to the word “chemical,” and you have a whole other picture going on in patients’ minds – anything from “peeling like a banana” to “peeling like a snake” or the image of Samantha from the Sex in the City episode that appeared to be more of a phenol-like peel versus the lunchtime peel that she was expecting.  Be sure to keep plenty of “before,” “during” and “after” photos of your previous patients’ treatments on hand to give an exact idea of what your patient can expect.

Oil – Yipes!  This one is a big trouble-maker, especially when you are speaking with acne patients.  When they see that word as an ingredient in the products you are recommending for them, all they see is a cup of vegetable oil, and the thought of putting that on their skin is NOT an option.  Be sure to educate your acneic patients on the properties of many types of oils that are good for the skin, such as borage seed oil, jojoba seed oil, grape seed oil, etc.  Remind them also, that their own sebum is comedogenic, and by applying products that are formulated with these beneficial oils, it will assist in reducing the amount of sebum produced by their own skin.

Burning or stinging – These two words are used often when applying peels and products to the patients’ skin.  Both of these words can be daunting, since both a “burn” and a “sting” are not pleasant.  Try using the words “active,” “tingling” or even “stimulating.”  Instead, these words have a more pleasant meaning to them that may make the difference in how the patient views what they are really feeling from an active ingredient or treatment.

Just by paying attention to what we say in our industry combined with the awareness of what the patient may be thinking can make a difference in their entire experience.  Have you had an experience similar to those mentioned above?  Please feel free to share them with us!

antioxidants: multifunctional ingredients – part two

Although the human body has its own native antioxidant defense sytem, daily use of topical antioxidants dramatically increases your skin’s protection against the visible signs of facial aging.  Following are some of the most effective antioxidants to add to your skin care regimen.

L-ascorbic acid is the only true form of vitamin C, and it is the only ingredient to provide all of vitamin C’s topical benefits, including collagen stuimulation. Topically applied L-ascorbic acid serves as a primary, secondary and co-antioxidant that fights free radicals in the skin.

Glutathione is part of the body’s natural antioxidant systems.  Many of the most commonly used antioxidants work by regenerating glutathione.  It is a primary antioxidant that neutralizes current and prevents future oxidation.  Glutathione also works as a co-antioxidant that supports L-ascorbic acid and vitamin E.

Green tea is the source of several potent polyphenol antioxidants. Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) thought to be responsible for green tea’s primary antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin cancer prevention benefits.   EGCG has been shown to prevent the formation of several highly damaging free radicals.

Genistein is an isoflavone derived from soybeans that increases the activity of the skin’s own antioxidants.  Studies suggest that genistein prevents free radical production.  Genistein also interferes with DNA damage and mutation due to UV exposure. Studies show genistein provides short- and long-term UV damage prevention, including redness, skin cancer and visible skin aging.

Resveratrol is found in berries, grapes and red wine.  It is a potent polyphenolic antioxidant that has been shown to suppress the production of a variety of  free radicals. Studies have also shown the resveratrol has a preventative effect on tumor formation within the skin.

Silymarin is a powerful flavanoid antioxidant found in milk thistle whose most active component is the silybin.  Research shows that silybin inhibits lipid peroxidation, free radical production and increases the amount of the skin’s natural antixoidant glutathione.

Caffeine is considered a primary and secondary antioxidant that is capable of scavenging a variety of damaging free radicals. Studies comparing caffeinated and decaffeinated beverages showed a marked increase in the antioxidant activity of those containing caffeine. Research also suggests that topical application of caffeine can reduce the potential of developing skin cancer by forcing damaged,  UV-exposed skin cells into apoptosis [cell death].

Ergothioneine is newer to the skin care market, but research demonstrates strong primary antioxidant, free radical scavenging capabilities. Skin cancer prevention has also been suggested with topical ergothioneine use.

All of these antioxidants can be found in a range of PCA SKIN daily care products and professional treatments.

antioxidants: multifunctional ingredients – part one

As one of the important systems in the body, the skin strives for a state of balance (homeostasis). Oxidative stress occurs as a result of many internal and external factors and disrupts this homeostasis.  Free radicals are molecules or ions with unpaired electrons that create oxidative stress and contribute to aging and disease. Our own cells’ mitochondria create free radicals as a result of normal cell metabolism.   UV rays, pollution and chemotherapeutic drugs are just some of the external sources that can also create oxidative stress in the skin.  Although our bodies contain their own natural antioxidant defense system, supplementation is typically necessary to fight oxidative stress and the resulting skin damage. Topically applied and orally administered antioxidants provide this needed protection.

 There are several levels of antioxidant function: primary antioxidants, secondary antioxidants and co-antioxidants.  Primary antioxidants act by donating an electron to disarm a free radical.  Secondary antioxidants chelate metal ions that are rich with electrons.  These metal ions are capable of triggering oxidation by donating or taking an electron.  By removing these metals, secondary antioxidants eliminate potential radical initiators.  Other molecules function as co-antioxidants.  These function by facilitating the antioxidant activity of other compounds.  Most antioxidants have a primary mechanism of action, but may have multiple functions.

UVB rays from the sun are the primary cause of a decrease in the antioxidant levels naturally found in the skin as well as an increase in reactive oxygen species (ROS), a particularly damaging free radical to the skin.  Because of this, regular use of broad-spectrum UV protection along with diligent application or topical antioxidants is necessary to help the skin’s system fight off oxidative stress.  This strategy will help protect skin from the premature aging caused by the sun as well as minimizing the chances of skin cancer.  PCA SKIN strongly believes that antioxidants are important for total skin health.

Next week we will outline some of the best antioxidants for your own skin care regimens.

don’t let winter get the best of your skin: part 3

UVB rays from the sun are thought to be responsible for the majority of UV-related skin damage, partially because of the immediate visible changes they produce. Although the inflammation and redness caused by a sunburn are the obvious downsides, it’s what’s happening inside your skin that is the most troublesome. UVB radiation is responsible for a series of events that take place inside the epidermal skin cells, including increased levels of the damaging free radical reactive oxygen species (ROS). Radicals are compounds with unpaired electrons. This lack of electron balance creates highly reactive atoms and molecules. There are many types of free radicals, but ROS have been widely studied because of their particularly damaging effects in the skin. Of the wide variety of environmental offenders, UV radiation is one of the top contributors to the overproduction of ROS free radicals and stress in the skin. ROS include hydroxyl radicals, nitric oxide, peroxynitrite, superoxide anions, peroxide, triplet oxygen and singlet oxygen. 

ROS are widely known for their ability to cause damage to cellular proteins, fats and even our DNA. The important factor for avoiding this oxidative stress and damage is keeping the skin’s radical and antioxidant levels in balance. Exposure to UV rays increases the production of ROS and upsets this balance (homeostasis) in the skin.  Using topical antioxidants in your daily care regimen is important all year but especially during the winter months when skin is dehydrated and vulnerable to damaging free radicals. In addition, UVB rays cause a reduction of the skin’s natural antioxidant levels, making it even more susceptible to DNA damage and mutation. It is this UV-induced DNA mutation that is the number one cause of skin cancers. This inevitable chain reaction in the skin is the reason the use of sunscreen ingredients alone is not enough. Sunscreen formulations should include antioxidants to help prevent the initial over-production of ROS and to support our natural defenses. Certainly, the use of SPF and antioxidants is important year-round, but it is a particularly helpful support to dry, dehydrated winter skin.

Multiple antioxidant ingredients have demonstrated benefits for reducing the incidence of ROS-induced skin cancers and premature aging. While there are thousands of topical antioxidants that are worthy of further study, one category of antioxidants worth noting is botanically sourced phenolic antioxidants.

Look for sunscreens and topical formulations with the following ingredients to boost antioxidants within the skin and protect it from UV damage:

• green tea
• resveratrol
• genistien
• ergothionene
• coffea arabica
• cocoa
• caffeine
• mangosteen
• silymarin

Many of these important ingredients can be found in all of the products in the PCA SKIN suite of sun protection products.