AHA, BHA and PHA.. what are they and what is the difference?

AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) are acids that are derived from fruits, nuts, milk or sugars. They are hydrophilic (attracted to water) and break down the bonds between cells (desmosomes) to allow for easier exfoliation. The most commonly used AHA are:

glycolic acid (derived from sugars) is degreasing and is effective for controlling sebum production.

malic acid (derived from apples) is hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration.

tartaric acid (derived from grapes) is antioxidant.

mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds) helps control pigment.

citric acid (derived from citrus fruits and corn) is anti-aging, brightening and increases epidermal thickness.

lactic acid (derived from milk and sugars) is antimicrobial, hydrating, inhibits pigment and adjusts pH.

Alpha hydroxy acids are commonly used in skin care to brighten the skin by increasing exfoliation. Citric and lactic acids are beneficial in that they are both biocompatible and have multiple benefits.

 BHA (beta hydroxy acids), the most common of which is salicylic acid, is derived from willow tree bark, wintergreen oil or sweet birch. Because salicylic acid is lipophilic (attracted to oil) and keratolytic, it is able to penetrate the oils in the skin and clear out follicles of excess debris and skin cells, making it especially effective in  the treatment of acneic skin conditions.

PHA (poly hydroxy acids) function the same as AHA, but cause less irritation due to their larger molecular size. They are especially beneficial in treating sensitive skin types that may not be able to tolerate AHA.  They provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well as assist with exfoliation. Some common PHA are:

 lactobionic acid (derived from lactose found in cow’s milk) is humectant, antioxidant and soothing.

galactose is a sugar utilized in glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis, and cell migration, which may enhance wound healing.

gluconic acid (a naturally occurring ingredient in cells), also known as gluconolactone in skin care products, is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, while possessing AHA properties

 AHA, BHA and PHA are beneficial ingredients to the skin and can be found in many PCA SKIN daily care and professional treatments.  When used in harmony, they can be beneficial to all skin conditions and skin types.

treating melasma

Melasma is a very difficult and frustrating condition for both the clinician and the patient. Over 6 million Americans suffer from this condition and roughly half of this number does not know what causes it or how to treat it. Surprisingly, 10% of men can also develop melasma.

There are still a lot of mysteries surrounding this condition and why hormonal fluctuations trigger the melanogenesis response. These hormonal fluctuations can be brought on by pregnancy, birth control, hormone-replacement therapy, or thyroid or hormonal disorders. In addition, melasma can be exacerbated by internal heat, inflammation and UV rays. Melasma is typically seen more in Fitzpatrick skin types IV and V, but anyone can be affected by it.

A broad-spectrum SPF product must be used every day, when treating melasma, and this must be conveyed to the patient during the first consultation. Without SPF, products and professional treatments will not produce the desired results. Daily care product use is also important in controlling the pigmentation process at home. Look for ingredients that inhibit pigment, such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, kojic acid and licorice root extract, to name a few; and ingredients that provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection.

Treating the skin with gentle chemical peels every three weeks is the recommended professional treatment for melasma patients. By treating the skin every 21 days, the clinician is able to prevent pigment that is rising to the surface of the skin from appearing darker, and this type of consistent exfoliation will lead to quicker lifting of the pigment without causing undue inflammation.

It is recommended to avoid overly-aggressive treatments, such as straight TCA peels, high percentages of hydroquinone or light therapies, such as laser or IPL. Patients commonly request IPL or laser as they think these will provide instant gratification and removal of their melasma. In fact, these are no longer recommended for melasma: IPL is considered an inconsistent treatment with only a small number of patients responding favorably; and laser treatments are too unpredictable and may produce initial lightening followed by a reoccurrence or worsening of the discoloration.

PCA SKIN® provides gentle professional treatments for melasma, such as the Sensi® Peel (formulated with five pigment-inhibiting ingredients) and Esthetique Peel (formulated with antioxidants and six pigment-inhibiting ingredients). Our Perfecting Protection SPF 30 is a broad-spectrum SPF product formulated with antioxidants and four pigment-inhibiting ingredients.

These are just a few of the many treatment and product options available for treating melasma in all skin types. Remember: the key to treating melasma successfully is to understand its triggers and to inform your patients of the best treatments for their unique skin type, product use and lifestyle changes that will improve the health and appearance of their skin.

a boost for holiday marketing

The holidays are a great time to build your practice.  This time of gift-giving and festivities typically leads to patients booking more appointments, as well as purchasing products and gift certificates for friends and family – and sometimes for themselves!  Take advantage of the spirit and provide your patients with options to fill these needs.

At PCA SKIN we are working to help you maximize the season.  Our three holiday promotions for 2011 provide you with a cost effective way to introduce your patients to the benefits of a customized skin care regimen. Our three promotions (Luster, Purity and Radiance) provide you with financial incentives you can pass along to your patients.

Luster includes:
Hydrating Serum (full-size), Après Peel® Hydrating Balm (full-size), Hydrator Plus SPF 30 (trial-size) and an attractive reusable bag.

Purity includes:
Purifying Mask (full-size), Nutrient Toner (full-size), Perfecting Protection SPF 30 (trial-size) and an attractive reusable bag.

Radiance includes:
ExLinea® Peptide Smoothing Serum (full-size), EyeXcellence (full-size), Perfecting Protection SPF 30 (trial-size) and an attractive reusable bag.

For more information about these promotions or for ideas on promoting your practice, call our team at 877.722.7546.  This holiday season, let it glow!

why do I need to stay cool after a chemical peel?

PCA SKIN recommends remaining cool for 48 hours post-peel… buy why?

The epidermis is comprised of several layers known as the basal layer, squamous layer, granular layer and the cornified layer.  When a chemical peel is applied, even if it’s very superficial (stratum corneum only), it can cause a separation of these layers.  If your patient sweats for any reason, either from a work out, getting into a hot vehicle, playing golf or sitting on the patio, water can become trapped between these layers, which can lead to blistering.  Blistering can then cause hyperpigmentation, depending on the severity.

Another reason for staying cool is that internal heat can also lead to hyperpigmentation, which is especially a concern for those with melasma.

Many clinicians choose alternative treatments during the summer months due to the increased chances of thermal heat or sweating.  Others will offer chemical peel treatments later in the day, so the patient has less UV-exposure than they would at an earlier time.

Get to know your patients’ lifestyles, workout schedules, jobs (in case they work in a hot kitchen), and even their vacation schedule.  Taking note of this will enable you to treat their skin accordingly and avoid any heat-related complications post-treatment.

the benefits of oxygen

Oxygen has many benefits to the skin, one is its ability to help in the fight against acne.  Acne is one of the most common skin conditions in America. More serious grades of acne can cause permanent scarring and skin damage, but even mild to moderate acne can cause a person severe emotional damage. Using targeted methods to clear acne quickly can help truly change a person’s life.  One important piece of the acne-clearing puzzle is oxygen.

The bacteria that proliferate and fuel acne are called proionibacterium acnes (P. acnes).  These bacteria are anaerobic, meaning they cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. Many of the time tested acne-controlling ingredients work by delivering oxygen into the follicle where the bacteria thrive, therefore killing them off.  One of these ingredients is benzoyl peroxide.  Another oxygen-delivering ingredient is hydrogen peroxide.

If you remember skinning your knee as a child and having hydrogen peroxide put on your cut it would foam.  This was the hydrogen peroxide working to kill bacteria so your cut wouldn’t get infected.  A product that provides this same type of action for the skin(without the foaming) is PCA SKIN Detox Gel deep pore treatment.  This professional treatment provides the skin with low level AHA as well as stabilized hydrogen peroxide to kill bacteria and detox the skin.  It is gentle and effective and can be used on acne, breakouts, dull or sluggish complexions, as well as on smokers who’s skin is chronically deprived of oxygen.

So give your patients healthy skin with a breath of fresh air.

smoking and the skin

While the month of November brings to mind fall leaves, pumpkins and giving thanks, it also marks the American Cancer Society’s annual Great American Smokeout.  November 17 is the date for this year’s 36^th Great American Smokeout, reminding smokers to either mark this day as a time to quit smoking permanently or to refrain from smoking for just this one day. 

Interestingly enough, most people begin to smoke as teenagers, thinking that it will make them appear older.  This thought couldn’t be farther from the truth!  In fact, smoking does exactly that!

Smoking is one of the most controllable causes of disease and death today.  It is known for directly contributing to heart and lung disease, but the damaging effects to the skin are less known and often ignored.  Smoking can cause poor wound-healing, collagen degradation, abnormal skin growths, oral cancers, deep wrinkling and premature skin aging, as well as a dull, sallow appearance.

Healthy skin function requires oxygen, and smoking causes a restriction of oxygen flow to the skin cells.  One cigarette causes vasoconstriction for up to 90 minutes.  Additionally, the carbon monoxide in cigarettes binds with oxygen and prevents it from reaching the skin cells.  Smoking also causes an increase in the enzyme responsible for breaking down collagen.  This accelerated degradation of collagen in conjunction with the repeated lip-pursing and eye-squinting during inhalation also contributes to increased severity of wrinkling and skin aging ……. especially in female smokers.

Professional treatments that encourage oxygenation and detoxification to the skin will improve the appearance and health of all skin types, especially those who smoke.  PCA SKIN’s Oxygenating Trio Treatment is an excellent choice, as it may be performed weekly and will increase oxygenation and the cells’ ability to detoxify, resulting in a radiant, healthy glow.

put your best face forward

Although the skin health industry faired better than many in the great recession, plenty of practices felt the pinch of patients holding on to – or losing – their disposable income. As consumer confidence and spending starts to rise, be sure you are maximizing your business’s exposure to bring those patients back, and for them to bring their friends.

The number one marketing tool for your skin health business is your own skin.  Your own beautiful, healthy skin shows your patients that the treatments and products you provide actually work.  Many clinicians started in skin care out of a desire to ‘fix’ their own skin.  If you were one of those people, have a picture of yourself before you resolved your skin challenges on hand to further illustrate the success that you could help them achieve.

Often, as professionals, we neglect ourselves in the rush and fervor of taking care of others.  If this is the case for you, now is the time to make a change.  Give yourself your favorite PCA SKIN professional treatment or trade services with a colleague.  It is important to put the same effort into your own skin as you do for others’.  And, the positive marketing side effect will naturally follow. The holidays are almost upon us, so be prepared!  Feel free to call us for answers to your questions or for suggestions to help your skin health business grow.